Seized snapped glow plug - Inventive solutions invited

Car : Vx Corsa '98 1.7D 104k

Decided to sort out my dickey glow plugs today,

1,3,4 all went fine, but number 2 would not come out, would not shift on the socket, so we sprayed some penny oil and left it for an hour or so, ran the engine for a while to warm up the head, more oil, still no play, then, well it had to happen, SNAP, the plug sheared off at the bottom of the thread leaving the body in the head.

Bugger...

Ahh well; mole grips on the remaining wire and a good levering should have the body of the plug out..... Yea rite!

Well now for the "rough" solution start the engine with the plug insitu and let the compression blow the bugger out....

All spectators removed to a safe distance of a few miles and engine started and run up to max rpm..... number two plug remains in head....

ah lets push the damn thing into the cylinder and at least get it moving....long thin (way thinner then the hole) socket + extension + tap from lump hammer, then good whack, then a good all out smack,,, plug still remains in head not budged a mm....

So I said sod it, and put the threaded bit back in and left it, for now..

I guess the head has to come off and get the plug out from the other side, but seems a bit of a PITA to take the head off to change a plug, I'm especially upset as I only had the cam belt done on Thursday!

So has anyone any inventive ideas to get it out?

Cant drill it as there is some rather hard wire emanating from the centre of the plug, by the time I have shifted enough stuff to get any burning lamps in I might has well have the head off...

I'm thinking that the carbon build-up around the plug is to blame, any ideas why this should occur, of the three I have removed 2 a clean as a whistle, and one is blackened...

All good fun!

Pictures to follow!

TIA

Tom

Reply to
Tom Burton
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When I worked at a Vx garage, we had a local chap come round who specialised in removing broken bolts/spark plugs/glow plugs in situ. It sometimes took a fair while, but was a very valuable service as can be imagined, and quite cheap as well. £20 to remove a siezed-in spark-plug in my old Cav. This was around the Southampton area - not sure where you are. Could be worth having a word with a garage in your area to see if there is somebody they use...

HTH

Anthony Remove eight from e-mail to reply.

Reply to
Anthony Britt

Is it feasible to soak what's left in PlusGas/injector cleaner/engine flush overnight, to (hopefully) dissolve the carbon?

Si

Reply to
Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot

If this is what's responsible, could you allow the plug to soak in something which will dissolve or react with the carbon? My first thought was hydrogen peroxide, though you'd need to make sure it reacted with the carbon faster than it reacted with the engine block. Something like Redex might do the job too. It's quite likey that if you try this approach, whatever you use will work faster at higher temperatures.

Joe

Reply to
Joe Kelleher

Has happened in our workshop too..... our solution.... get a "Torx" bit... the type that has a 10mm hex for a socket drive...... hammer... yes hammer it inside the shell of the heater/spark plug and use it to remove the broken end.

Reply to
JK

Tried soaking it with Easy-start kinda spray when we got fed up with penny oil....

:(

Reply to
Tom Burton

apparently leaving it soaked in vinegar helps

Reply to
dojj

What about methylene chloride?

Reply to
Tom Burton

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Not The Greatest doe to my camera wobble and fading light,

The bit of the plug that you see is the bit that I can unscrew ( I screwed it back in to prevent the remainder making an appearance via a direct route thought the bonnet on the M1 at 70MPH.

The plug has snapped where the point of my key is on the picture of the removed plugs..

TY

Tom

Reply to
Tom Burton

Why bother? The car will start with only 3 plugs, and no 2 cylinder will soon pick up seconds after starting the engine.

The only possible disadvantage is that it may be smokey for a few seconds on very cold starts, so for all the hassle of getting it out you have little gain.

Reply to
SimonJ

Considered this myself...

I am warming to this idea :)

Reply to
Tom Burton

The blackened one has not been fully tight, prob. same for the broken one. if you fill the hole with some sort of creamy lubricant then as you refit the broken threaded part then it will hydraulically force the lube into the hole and may, over time free the remainder.

mrcheerful mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

Thought about that too, but the threaded bit has a hole through it where the wire pokes out, couldn't really weld it :(

Reply to
Tom Burton

Then I remebemered why i thought it was a bad idea initally... Should the plug decide to come loose, there is nothing stopping it falling into the cylinder, ok i have looped the wire to stop it falling in, but i cant be

100%.

Tom

Reply to
Tom Burton

A possibility i s'pose

I thought the hole at the bottom of the pulg hole would only be big enough for the tip of the plug to go through, so it cant drop in?

Reply to
SimonJ

do you think?

Hmmn I might whip one of the other plugs back out and have a peep to set my mind at rest, it would explain why whacking it with a small socket + hammer had little effect if you are correct.

Tom

Reply to
Tom Burton

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