Smoking on Startup and Initial Acceleration

Got some oil burning on my 2001, Nissan Primera P11-144, 1.8 QG18De engined car.

It's done 85k miles, nearly 60k without changing the power steering fluid o r the iridium spark plugs. Still look mint the plugs too. Well. No worse th an plugs that have done 10k!

Getting some dark grey/possibly blue smoke at startup and initial accelerat ion.

Losing oil rapidly.

No oil on the spark plugs, compression across all cylinders is 150 to 160 p si - could maybe be higher, but OK.

Looking for thoughts what it could be - Im guessing possibly exhaust valve seals? But PCV or Breather hoses might be a problem? If it's seals, I under stand it could be head off and up to £600 for someone who knows what they 're doing.

Any other thoughts? Im disinclined to believe PCV unless someone can explai n how I might actually be burning oil without it showing on the plugs? Woul d be the cheaper option. Unless anyone can recommend someone to take a look at the valve seals for a much much cheaper cost than £600....

Thanks SImon

Reply to
sjdean
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If there is no turbo (not iirc), and if it is not showing on the plugs, but is being burnt (exhaust smoke on start up), then exhaust valve stem seals are the likely fault. on most engines the stem seals can be changed without removing the head, (by a skilled mechanic.)

Reply to
Mrcheerful

What he said.

Reply to
SteveH

I have done this in the past with the correct kit. If you are having problems at that level though you might has well have the head off and do a proper job.

Reply to
Jim Baker

id or the iridium spark plugs. Still look mint the plugs too. Well. No wors e than plugs that have done 10k!

60 psi - could maybe be higher, but OK.

lve seals? But PCV or Breather hoses might be a problem? If it's seals, I u nderstand it could be head off and up to ?600 for someone who knows what they're doing.

plain how I might actually be burning oil without it showing on the plugs? Would be the cheaper option. Unless anyone can recommend someone to take a look at the valve seals for a much much cheaper cost than ?600....

Just got to find a skilled mechanic in Brum.

Im not inclined to spend £600 on this... Im going to need new rear tyres, poss new exhaust, new accessory belt, change the PAS fluid, rear brakes, c lutch (as gears are starting to get a bit crunchy).

Think it's time for a new(er) car.

Oh well. It's done well.

Thanks.

Simon

Reply to
sjdean

Good call.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Compression numbers are very low. I presume it was with warm engine and fully open throttle? A good engine would have 190 psi plus. That much wear is surprising on a jap engine at lowish mileage unless the oil changes or oil type have been seriously skimped on. Not worth spending money on. Just keep buying oil and run her till she drops or fails an MOT.

Reply to
Dave Baker

Cold engine, no throttle. Is that good or bad?

Reply to
sjdean
[...]

You won't get meaningful figures unless you test with a hot engine, and the throttle held wide open.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

But so many make this mistake on first go unless they read the destructions.

Then there is the next most common mistake of doing it with a poor battery. This results in the reading getting lower for the cylinders tested later. This results in the misdiagnoses that the last 2 pots have a failed head gasket.

One guy removed just one plug at a time as he tested each cylinder. Good job he had removed the fuel pump fuse and unplugged the ignition amp.

Take all the plugs out, fit tester on the cylinder to be tested, floor the throttle and crank to a whump whump count of about 7, try to be consistent.

If it is low when wide open and hot then you should do the wet test. Put a very small amount of oil (1-2cc - about a desert spoon) down the plug holes and spin the engine over to distribute it to the rings then re-test. If compression improves then the rings are worn. If not then valves have poor seats.

Reply to
Peter Hill

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