2000 reg BMW E46 330i 90k miles. Problem selecting reverse gear. Sometimes it does sometimes it doesn't. All forward gears work as normal.
Belongs to a friend. He tells me that he has to re-select reverse maybe once or twice before it engages. When it does, it works normally. When it doesn't, it like it's in neutral. The engine revs. Car stays put.
Sounds more like a g/b ECU problem to me, rather than a mechanical one. He hasn't got around to having it checked yet. In the meantime. Any ideas? TIA. Mike. UK
This is the classic failure mode - and mileage - for that gearbox's reverse to fail. If it has failed, the dealer will want to install a new or remanufactured one for $$$$. They can be fixed, but you need to find someone that actually does it - good luck.
However, one possible failure point for these transmissions is the transmission controller (ECU) - they seem to be sensitive to voltage drops when the battery is old or discharged. Wouldn't be too expensive to drop in a new battery (Duralast 49 fits and is much less than OEM) and see if that affects things.
I *think* reverse, neutral and one forward gear are part of the limp home mode so independent of ECU control. So I'd first check the gear change cable is in fact selecting the position correctly. Doesn't sound like a clutch pack fault. More likely something sticking in the hydraulics, if it is being selected properly.
Speak to TES Transmissions in Westbury, Wilts. They remanufuacture boxes for all the majors and know these things *inside-out*. My E36 auto box was getting a bit notchy on the change when cold. They did a full fluid change plus all 3 filters all for £115 incl. while I waited. Box is now lovely (160k miles) JB
in article snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net, Mike G at snipped-for-privacy@largefoot.com wrote on 12/1/08 10:04 AM:
300 series is not robust enough for America roads for my tastes, such is why I do the 500 series ... have 175k miles now for an 8 year old car ... going real strong ... only an oil leak that has to be fixed again from the second major service it had to do (time clocked on me, not the mileage) when the cracked the engine case.
Cheers Dave. I'll pass your comments on. I can't believe the g/b needs to be replaced for what appears to be an actuator fault, rather than a fault with the g/b mechanics, or clutches.
As you suggest, checking the cable is probably the best thing to check, before anything else, but if it is a sticking hydraulic clutch actuator, do you know if they can be replaced or serviced without stripping the g/b?
If it's not the cable, maybe an oil change would help? I'm trying to think of cheaper alternatives to try, before more expensive options, like a new g/b.. My friend is not that well off. Mike.
If it's the clutch or actuator I'd say it's a total stripdown job. If a valve sticking, it might be possible in situ. But that's a guess.
It would do no harm - but the correct fluid is very pricey. You really need the advice of a specialist - but I don't know of one. Most will simply want to fit a recon box.
Secondhand boxes don't seem to go for a fortune on Ebay, though.
Spoke to him this evening, and things have changed. Now it appears as if reverse is slipping, and it does it every time it's selected. It will reverse at tickover on level ground, but if given any accelerator, it just revs, and the car stops. It's beginning to sound expensive.
He rang the local BMW main dealer today. They had similar ideas as yourself about the fault, but they can't check it until next week.
Had a look on eBay. Steptronic gearboxes seem to go for anything between £300 and £700. Even at £300 it's not going to be cheap by the time labour costs are added.
I told him he should have bought an E39. :-) Mike.
Know any good reconditioners? Maybe to repair his existing one? At least then there would be some sort of guarantee. Trouble with a s/h box is that you're taking a gamble on it being a good one, and taking into account the labour cost of fitting, it could be an expensive option compared to a recon one if it goes wrong after a few months. I would find the choice a difficult one to make.
He paid £6,250 for it about 6 months ago. HFM I hear you say. :-) Must say though that well equipped E46 330i's, like his are still fetching around 4k. Mike UK.
in article snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk, Dave Plowman (News) at snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk wrote on 12/3/08 2:05 PM:
nawwww ... get it done right if you want to put the time and mileage in.
You can get a box out of the Dismantelers Yard if you like.
Swap it out ... and then drive the Beamer for what ... another 20k or so until you have to do it again.
Or get it done right ... if the car is worth it ... and get the 90k out of it.
Penny wise and dollar foolish is the connundrum here.
Some stores will take the trade in and give you an upgrade on a less used Beamer for the money involved ... and you give them the problem to sort out ... which they will better then you can.
It's not usually worth doing a repair due to the high labour costs in removing and stripping - the cost of the parts for a full overhaul is a modest proportion of this. And I doubt you'd find a repairer who would guarantee the work without doing a full overhaul.
My preference is to use a specialist who do the work themselves rather than those who are just fitters of other's work. And that would usually mean overhauling your own box.
The only one I know of personally is in this area of SW London - close to The Oval.
Total Transmission Services Ltd Glouster House
17 Crammer Road London SW9 6EJ
020 7735 6566/6676
It really depends. A secondhand one out of a low mileage wreck could have lots of life left. But it's a personal decision to be made by the owner.
Wonder if it was on its way out then...
OK. I'd guess at about 1500 quid to have a decent job done.
Depends on why the vehicle was scrapped. Low mileage cars get written off too.
That's fine if you are awash with money - but spending 50% of a car's value on a repair could be said to be penny wise pound foolish too - as you won't get it back at resale.
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