The missus' TD5, again ...

Problems with the airbag rear suspension. Over the years that we've had it, it has had rear suspension airbags replaced a couple of times. Always, the problem has been that overnight, one side would sag. If left long enough, the whole back end would be on its arse. Now, it has decided to do the opposite. With the engine running, the suspension jacks itself up full - in fact maybe more than normal full. You can't seem to make it do anything like the right things from the dashboard switch, although it does chime as it should if the ride height elevation is engaged. The dashboard light seems to be a bit arbitrary as well now. Tonight for instance, although the suspension was fully up, there was no dashboard light on an outbound journey, On the return, the light came on, even though nothing had been touched.

If the car is left for a couple of hours, the nearside seems to go down compared to the offside quite quickly. My buddy has run a scanner over it, and there are a couple of hard faults logged that say that valves in the suspension compressor circuit have exceeded their service life. He thinks that this is something to do with the problem, but I think that it might just be an 'information only' red herring. The scanner would not allow these errors to be cleared.

My feeling is that it is something to do with the nearside going down. Could it be that it has a fairly large leak in that bag or its pneumatic feed circuit,and with the engine and compressor running and the car raised up, that leak is almost beyond the compressor's ability to compensate so it's running all the time confusing the ECU and jacking the suspension right up on both sides ?

I really don't understand the operation of this suspension system well enough to be properly diagnosing this problem, so is there anyone amongst the usual suspects that can offer any pointers please ?

Ta

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily
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Open your wallet and repeat after me: "Help yourself"

From your description even an 'expert' in those would say it is open season as to the exact cause and the likely total bill.

Reply to
MrCheerful

I have a lot of experience with this system. I maintain a TD5 and have this happen every year or two.

First go and pull the pump relay in the under bonnet fuse box. Now. This minute. Go! Should be relay 5 or labelled SLABS.

Reason being that there's no safety cutoff to keep an eye on how long its been blowing itself up and, left alone, it can burst the air spring (v nasty.) If your wife is miles away get her to leave a door on the latch (stops the system trying to do anything.)

The fault *will* be the ride height sensor on the side that's jacking itself up. There's one either side mounted between chassis and trailing arm. Little box on the chassis with an articulated arm + elbox. For some reason the bloody system's not designed with any fail safe in so out or range errors just let it keep pumping away.

Pattern sensors are readily available on eBay (about £25 from memory.) They tend to be a mixed bag, often failing again after 12/18 months, but cheap enough to keep a spare and, once you know the problem and its solution, a five minute fix.

Before you change it, disconnect the battery before disconnecting the sensor. If you don't the system will do a complete reverse and dump all the air. And once down on its haunches the system won't actually pump itself back up again (bloody LR.)

The Internet says that, once in this situation, you're off to the dealers or need a Nanocom but this is bunk. If you do forget to do this (which I usually do) get a trolley jack under the tow hitch and jack it up to something approximating ride height. Start the engine and then slowly lower the jack. The system will perk up and start pumping again.

The only remaining problem is the calibration of the system. The SLABS ECU holds correction values so the precise ride height can be set. Replacement sensors are sometimes quite close, sometimes up to an inch off. To rewrite the values requires a dealer or a Nanocom, both of which are pricey. The last one I replaced was quite off so I just stuck a strip of metal between trailing arm and sensor arm to frig it a bit. Works well.

Reply to
Scott M

A fan of Spike Milligna!

Air suspension systems on cars are relatively uncommon and therefore misunderstood and badmouthed by "experts" who always want to replace them with standard springs. I've dealt with a few and they're actually rather nice to work on, fairly reliable and not particularly difficult to maintain.

The TD5 system has a rather nice option of being able to drop the rear to facilitate trailer attaching/detaching rather than all that armwork with jockey wheels.

Reply to
Scott M

Scott M wrote in news:nktcl7$1n0e$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org:

Thanks for all the good advice Scott. I'll get on it as soon as I can, and report back

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

Scott M wrote in news:nktcl7$1n0e$ snipped-for-privacy@gioia.aioe.org:

Ha ! Spot on, old boy ! The sensor on the offside - the side that was riding at full extension - had a seized shaft. The plastic arm was moving but the shaft was standing still. I guess that as it started seizing and the splines on the inside of the shaft 'broke free' the ECU was fed with all sorts of garbage about where the suspension was.

Replacement sensor sorted the problem completely, so thanks for your invaluable input !

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

Arfa Daily wrote in news:XnsA639C276A4DE6arfadailyitsalljustb@81.171.92.236:

That's arm, not shaft ...

Arfa

Reply to
Arfa Daily

Glad to help. The ones I've had die have done so electronically rather than seizing but good to see LR deciding on the same course of action for both and jack the thing stupid!!

Reply to
Scott M

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