track control arm

Because the adjuster's seized, and heat frees it.

If you use too much heat, it'll do damage, yes. In moderation? No. The other alternative is lashings of penetrating oil and time - and then you'll probably STILL need heat.

On the track rod end locking nut is more likely, and sometimes necessary to get it moving.

In a way, it's a good thing that the adjuster is not easilily moved. I spoke to one and asked first if gas flame was used. He said they had to because they didn't have car lift. Once car is up from ground it would be possible to use more force. I was still worried about the idea of putting gas flame to my car. I think everybody should have a car lift :)

Umm, if you're meaning "to stop it going wander whenever it fancies", then there's a clamp or a lock-nut for that job... Knackered rusty seized threads are not a substitute...

I think there might be some chinese whispers going on there.

I've had to use serious amounts of heat even with the rod off the car and in a vice. Ease of access only makes a difference if it's sort-of- borderline.

Anybody half-way professional does have.

It may be preferable to warm up the locknut, rather than use massive force to get it undone cold, especially since that may involve putting excess forces through steering components, the risk of breaking something, the chance of injury if the spanner slips, etc. A blow torch, an induction heater or oxy-acetylene are all normal parts of a professional's toolkit and are used when needed.

I recommend this one. Every professional should have one...

Had the tracking done, but didn't make a jot of difference. Wonder if they did anything at all. Need to find a proper tracing service.

It is feasible to check your tracking with two long bits of straight wood or string, set parallel to each other(very important) and near as dammit to the sides of the car, at centre of wheel level. check the distance to the rear of the front wheel rim to the board/string on both sides and adjust the steering to give you an equal gap on both sides , move your measure to the front edge of the wheel rim and check the gap each side. add front gaps together. add rear gaps together , take one from the other and you will be able to see the deviation (if any) from the wheels being parallel, somewhere between dead parallel and 3mm in or out is normal, most cars have a slight inward tracking of two or three mm.

Lots of places offer a free tracking check, I sometimes use a place that has a set of laser tracking equipment, it seems very easy to use and you can see the measurements easily. For most jobs I use the very elderly and simple Dunlop drive over slip gauge.

After handing over the keys, and waiting for about 30 minutes in the waiting room, the service guy drove my car across the yard, left it there near the exit with the engine still idling. I was thinking that someone could just jump into my car and drive off the yard, just like that. So I went over and waited next to my car for another 15 minutes. That's what it would have cost me in ideling fuel according to this oik. Why don't they have any concern in the world for the safety of customners cars?