Transit 2.2L Durotorq question

We have a new campervan, well new to us (2009 reg) and the engine is a thing of joy compared to the old bus. It romps up hills and despite pulling a much heavier load it seems to be returning >30 mpg (according to the computer). Of course, this is probably lying. ;-)

Anyhow, on our first trip away, we got stuck behind a bl**dy campervan and when an opportunity to overtake arrived, it was a long straight hill. I gave it the beans and it sailed gloriously past, at which point a red warning light lit on the dash and "Engine malfunction" appeared on the display.

We pulled over, turned the engine off and checked the oil level (which is about the limit of what I feel competent to do on a modern diesel these days). Oil was perhaps a wee bit high (just had a service) but engine temperature was fine. On restarting the warning had gone and never repeated over the next 250 miles.

So, do I rush off to a garage to get the codes read (if possible) or is this just "one of those things" that happens occasionally with modern diesels when you demand full power for any length of time?

Tim

Reply to
Tim+
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Paying a garage to read codes is like paying Mystic Meg for a tarot reading. Even blindingly obvious errors gets a "well I've cleared it, see if it comes back" response from most rather than anything constructive.

Better off a) finding a good Ford Forum to see if it's a common activity with this engine and/or b) finding a Ford specific OBD code reader[1] in case it is a developing fault. Generic OBD readers are OK but the fault codes can be less specific.

[1] For example, BMW forums have taken to recommending this gadget which is apparently very good, so I can imagine their being a Ford equivalent somewhere -
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Reply to
Scott M

the cheap way to get the diagnostic is to be in the aa/rac, pull up to a van, tell them what happened and they will read the codes/have probably seen it before.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Without reading the codes or looking at the vehicle, and depending which exact flavour of 2.2 lump you have.....

However I would put £10 on the fault being an "overboost" or boost deviation" code, set by sticking vanes in the VGT turbo. We see them all the time with certain VAG cars and some Fords. Heightened when the regular drivers style is gentle or mpg concious, but then does a full power overtaking where-upon the vanes are asked to move to a full open position they havent been to for a while where the runners are full of carbon. The motor is overcome, the turbo gives more boost than the ECU has commanded which then sets a code.

Disconnecting the lever when cold (c-clip) and working it back and forth vigorously with some vice grips may break the carbon enough, otherwise we strip off the CHRA and clean them on the bench.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim

Cheers for that Tim that sounds very plausible as this engine is supposed to have a variable vane turbo and that is my normal normal driving style with a camper. Clearly more welly more often needed! ;-). I'll have a poke around under the bonnet and see what I can see.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

On 16/06/14 14:11, Tim

Almost certainly correct, I'd say.

Some people with VAG TDI's have had good results with Mr Muscle oven cleaner with the turbo in situ.

Reply to
Chris Bartram

Strangely enough a shop keeper told me that mechanics were buying that, but he didn't know why.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Well the lever seemed to move fairly freely over its full range so it looks like this wasn't the problem. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Do not alter the vanes stop screw, nor turn on the ignition with the actuator disconnected from the arm.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim

NOW you tell me. ;-) it's okay, I did neither of those.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Is that applied externally or internally?

:-)

Reply to
newshound

Yup, that would work nicely, especially if baked at gas mark 3/4 for half hour :>

Tim..

Reply to
Tim

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