Transit van battery not charging ?

The charge rate should be checked when the (good) battery is charged rather than flat and with the engine revving a bit you should see close to 14 volts at the battery. Belts wear, particularly V belts which can mean they run out of adjustment, this is normal. Multi groove belts are better and often outlive the vehicle.

Generally, if the alternator and battery are both good, you should see about 13.8v with the engine running at a fast idle.

It may not even be the correct belt.

Thanks both. That gives us a few further things to check.

Andy C

What Tranny is this?

It'll have smart charge if its a fairly recent one, and possibly two batteries also.

Tim.

It's an R reg, don't know the model but it only has a single battery.

Andy C

Check to see if it has a fuseable link in the wiring near the battery the spade connectors could need cleaning.

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And although not relevant to the OP, be aware that on twin-battery Transits that fuse will often blow if you attempt to tow-start one with a flat battery, leaving you with no charge at all.

Chris

Interesting - any guesses as to why?

Nope; doesn't actually make much sense to me.

When my Step-son worked for the AA, he got stuck on a Tranny that wouldn't charge. The laptops the patrols carry have a list of common faults, and a work-flow for dealing with them. The 'blown fuse after tow (or push) starting' was top of the list; he checked the fuse, and sure enough it was blown.

He queried it with their tech support, but they couldn't give a clear answer; best they came up with is that it's related to the way the split- charge, coupled with the Ford Smart Charge works. He asked me (which is how I know about it) but I couldn't enlighten him.

He came across it a number of times subsequently, and owners were advised not to attempt future snatch starts. He used to carry spare fuses just for that fault as they weren't part of the standard kit.

Chris

In which case there is a fusible link in the wiring harness by the battery under the insulation - look for a bulge. Metering between B+ at alternator and B+ battery lead (both ends disconnected) will confirm if its blown.

Next time he's got no work, I'll take a look. Thanks.

Andy Cap explained on 22/09/2012 :

It depends on the alternator, but generally it should be better than 14 volts with engine running. 12.7 volts with engine running, means nothing is going into the battery.

Have you looked at the voltage on a modern car? (apart from those with a 'smart' charge system) Most seem to stay at 13.8v if things are normal.

12.7 would be a very fresh battery with no load on it - I doubt you'd see that after it had started the engine, and with the engine running, but absolutely no charge.

In article , Harry Bloomfield scribeth thus

I've found it to be around 14.4 odd volts...

As a simple test - What ever the voltage - with a volt metre across the battery terminals you should first record the battery voltage then when the engine speed is increased, which gets the alternator excited, the voltage should rise, which then shows the charge rate. If there is no increase in voltage the alternator is not charging the battery. Most charge rates are at about 14V which is above the battery voltage.

All alternators I've ever seen charge at idle. One of the main reasons for changing from a dynamo. It may well not produce its maximum output until about 1500 engine rpm or so, though.

By how much? that's why you should see an increase in charge rate as you rev the car.

One of the main reasons for

I wouldn't guarantee it. The charge rate depends on the condition of the battery.