Undersealing car.

I've used Waxoyl for all my undersealing duties and apart from the fact that it can be a bit messy it does a great job.

I still do, but I've got air for spraying it. Wouldn't want to be brushing it on.

Steve

Fortunately I've got access to air and a proper gun for doing it. Don't think I relish the thought of using a brush either.

Big girl's blouse.

LOL. Got covered in enough crap yesterday doing the handbrake.

Waxoyl, Waxoyl, and Waxoyl! Gets everywhere if you slosh it about properly - spray into sills/chassis members, finds every small gap around spot welds etc. if of the right consistency and not in cold weather.

Just remembered the last batch I got is by Hammerite, and it's schutz with added waxoyl. Best of both worlds, hopefully.

Steve

Wot's the recommended way to seal a car nowadys anyway? The Focus should have sufficiently good underseal for a few more years but assuming I find a huge lump missing this weekend how's one go about it?

Also I've found some good 0W30 oil - the panels though on using this for the winter instead of the usual 5W30 - or not bother? It's a diesel

Assuming you haven't got the necessary schutz gun (it screws on to the top of the can) and compressed air to operate it, you're pretty much stuck with brushing it on. get a can of schutz/underbody protection or whatever name the brand your factor stocks and a brush. Brush it over the damaged area. let it dry, or at least become tacky and do it again. you then have a brush coated with the stuff that you won't be able to use next day. You can throw it away, or put it in a container with some old engine oil, then you have a convenient means of applying a bit of gloop when you feel the urge:-))

Alternatively, I believe you can get it in aerosol cans, but I haven't used them.

Steve

It's never done that well in any tests. One brand name that does in most is Dinitrol.

Waxoyl itself is for inside chassis members but one needs waxoyl underseal for undersealing. Most cars I've had that have rotted have done so from the inside out so I'd place more importance on innersealing than undersealing.

I've found 10% lanolin dissolved in white spirit very good. Usually spray it from one of those plastic £1 garden spray bottles, you can usually get the nozzle into the drain holes to do some of the internal box sections as well. Keeping the bottle warmed in an old saucepan of boiling water helps to get the stuff dissolved. (Lanolin melts at about 70 deg C). It leaves your hand feeling lovely as well!

While it is true that Dinitrol does penetrate the surface layer of rust, it is not too effective in stopping the rot altogether. This Swedish company completed a comparative 4-year study of different protectants on cars and found Valvoline's Tectyl was the best, but crucially they found it was important to *remove* all rust first before application of any protectant.

(Half way down, re: 1998) Has anyone got some experience with this Tectyl stuff? Any good?

Zeibart has stopped trading. What has gone wrong? Didn't their rust proofing work? Why is there no other company doing rust protection treatment for cars any more? Any comment?

I've noticed that but am a bit sceptical as to how it translates to the real world - especially compared with no treatment at all. I suspect that Dinitrol is only marginally better, but as it costs so much more, I for one, wouldn't be able to splash it on with the same gay abandon I do with Waxoyl. IMO this is one of those times when lots of cheap stuff can actually be better than a little of the expensive stuff.

But not Waxoyl!

Interesting reading, but not many of us are able to blast our entire cars back to bare metal every 6 years.

The first time I came across the name was on the rustiest TR7 I'd ever seen which was wearing an ancient sticker saying "Zeibarted". I assumed it was forrin for "shagged".