Weird sidelights problem Mk4 Golf

Does it have the arrangement where the sidelights on one side or the other can be switched on with the indicator stalk when the ignition is off? If so, perhaps the fuse marked 'parking lights' is not the one you need to check?

If it is so equipped, do the lights work on each side when powered by that method?

Chris

Every VW (and other VAG car) I've had does that, so it's a valid test. Also, to the OP, there usually isn't a nearside fog lamp fitted.

I'd also say that you can't always see a blown filament. BTW, official procedure to change front bulbs is to drop the bumper (!), but it's possible but fiddly without.

Well, you learn something new every day :) It appears it does indeed have this feature. I just tested it and it it not working on the near side of the car, nor does it sound the warning buzzer when you open the car door (which I would have thought was separate from the bulbs actually working). The off-side works as expected. Could a fault with this feature be interfering with the normal operation of the sidelights?

I can confirm this as a Golf Mk4 owner. I actually ran a wire from the offside rear fog light to the rear left hand lights cluster so that I could have two rear fog lights rather than just one.

Stephen

As per my reply to t'other Chris, it does have this feature but it is not illuminating the near side of the car (nor sounding the buzzer when you open the door).

Ah, I probably didn't notice that! I'll should probably get someone to check the reversing lamp on that side (assuming there is one).

Yes, I agree, visual inspection is unreliable. But I did swap the rear bulb that I could get to, so I'm fairly sure there's something funny with that side of the electrics that is not bulb or fuse related.

Blimey, I think it's probably easier to remove the battery so I can get a hand in there! Incidentally, if I do come to remove the battery, am I likely to have any issues with the immobiliser / remote keys? Or the radio (is it coded?)

Cheers,

Andrew

Cool, thanks for the info. So it probably is just the sidelights that are affected. Indicator definitely works. I'll get someone to have a look at the reversing light tomorrow.

No, the immobiliser and remote fob should be fine- the immobiliser only generally fails if you swap and engine ECU or instrument pack.

Generally the OE radio will only ask for a code if moved to another car (it reads something (VIN?) from the instrument panel). Our Lupo's radio asks for the code if the battery is disconnected, then fixes itself after a couple of ignition cycles IIRC. My Audi A3 just worked without difficulty.

You will need to reset the electric windows: wind them all the way down, then all the way up, holding the switch up for a few seconds. Otherwise the one-touch and comfort opening won't work.

One other thing: if you have an engine with a stepper-motor throttle body, ideally you should reset the throttle adaption after disconnecting the battery, but often it's OK without: if you find it hunting or idling badly it may be needed.

I'd recheck the fuses, bearing in mind the labelling can be a bit random. To me it just looks like the feed to the lamp circuit is missing.

The fuse card is actually a mirror image of where the fuses are in fact located. It took me a bit of head scratching before I realised this! I can only assume the card is for a LHD car (mine is RHD but was an import originally) I'm pretty sure I checked the correct fuses though, as they are

5A (the rating specified for parking lights) and located in a far corner (so harder to mix up their position).

Thanks for the info, that's all useful to know. I'll have another go at the lights at the weekend.

I may have a problem resetting the electric windows as the driver's side window glass has come adrift from the regulator (a common mk4 Golf problem I believe). But that's a job for another day :) This car does have a few niggles but I'll put up with a lot for its 310Nm of torque from that fantastic 1.9 PD.

[...]

Picking a random year/model on Autodata shows the sidelight fuses as F22 and F23. If you want more accurate information, post exact model details.

Chris

It turned out to be a fuse in the end, even though it looked perfect! All working again now (bulbs are fine).

you didn't test it? what a terrible waste of time. in the absence of a tester you only need to swap it with the other side (or circuit) that works.

Surprises me as well I will always run a multimeter over the fuses when looking for a fault - looking for continuity - a blown fuse is not always visible, even if its removed from the block for a close up inspection.

No, I didn't test it when I first had a (very quick) look into the problem. As I said in my original post, it was dark and freezing cold out. Besides, I've never seen a non-working fuse that shows no (visual) sign of having blown before. When I came to look at it properly at the weekend, I did test it and sorted it fairly quickly (excluding the time to go and buy a new fuse of course, as I didn't have any of the diddly sort that do the sidelights).

[...]

They are very common!

Auto fuses are cheap and cheerful; they are subjected to vibration and temperature variations. It's no wonder they fail in the way you have experienced.

Chris

Yep you can't always see it blown even the old glass tube type, break inside the end caps.

A cheap way to test any electrical problems is to buy a test light with a sharp probe.

I use one which has two LEDs (red and Green) in the dome and indicates polarity as well.

Mine didn't cost that much either if you look around perhaps eBay.