Wheel Arch Rust

Dave Rove wrote:

If you need to ask, then probably not. Not being condescending, just
stating a fact. Possibilities range from cleaning back to sound metal,
and repairing it with fibreglass, assuming the rust hasn't gone too far
into the sructure, to cutting back to good metal and welding a
replacement section in, which needs tools and a workshop. That section
may be double skinned, which makes it harder.
--
Tciao for Now!

John.

John Williamson wrote:


I think I'll give it a go, though.  It seems worth spending maybe a few tens
of pounds to see if I can save myself hundreds.  If I mess it up then I'll
have a body shop fix it.  I'll probably see what can be done with
fibreglass, since I don't have the means to do welding.

I assume that I'd need something to support the fibreglass, because after
cleaning the rust away, I might need to extend downwards by one or two cm
from the remaining metal to where the rim used to be.  In the local
Halfords, I see that they sell fine aluminium mesh for supporting larger
patches.  Would that work as a support or would something else be better?

Dave Rove wrote:

I've seen a repair panel listed for under twenty quid, one source is:-

http://www.nicedeals.co.uk/

If you phone them or e-mail them, they should be able to tell you
whether the panels need to be welded on or not. There may also be
fibreglass panels available. A lot easier than faffing about with soggy
glass fibre matting.

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

John Williamson wrote:


Thanks.  One problem with my car, a Mk6 RS2000, is that there are
differences from the standard Mk6 Escort, and not many were made, so parts
dealers often don't have it listed.  So I've just created a photographic
comparison between the two, and it looks to me as though the only
difference near the wheel arch is that the RS has wide plastic sills and a
different bumper to hide the wider wheels, so I'm reasonably confident
that the metalwork is the same.

http://drove.imgur.com/compare

That being so, then this Nice Deals item appears to be the perfect part:

http://www.nicedeals.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5495

I can't tell if it's metal or plastic, but I assume that it's intended as
a cover.  I don't imagine that you're expected to torch a hole in the same
shape as that part so that it can be fitted as a replacement.

Their shipping is expensive, but I've managed to find the same part on
Ebay, so I'll query them about it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110719336494

Well, I've got back the answer to a query that I made about this wheel
arch part on Ebay.   [ click on enlarge image ]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110719336494

I asked:  "Is this item plastic or metal?  Am I right in assuming that it
could be pop-riveted or glued over the original arch and the edge smoothed
over with filler, rather than it requiring welding?"

And got the reply: "Hi they are Metal and you can try and fit it how they
like but as far as I'm concerned the old one needs removing and this needs
welding on    Hope this helps    <name redacted>  Transport Manager"

It's helpful to know that it's metal  -- but I'm confused by the "old one
needs removing" bit.  I assumed that the above part is, in effect, the
part of the rear wing's outer skin that surrounded the wheel arch -- so
there is no "old one".  Am I not right?

Dave Rove wrote:

Yes and no. There is no separate part, as that area is all made of two
pressings in the factory, (Inner wing, which is shown on the picture you
took with the camera on the wheel, and the outer wing, which is what you
see looking from the outside), both of which form part of the body
structure and are welded together. What he's trying to tell you that the
metal round the arch area needs cutting back to sound metal for a good
repair.

If he said that it could just be pop riveted over the old one, then
covered with filler, (Which is true, but not recommended) and a few
years down the line, it failed, then there are, unfortunately, people
who would quote him and sue his company for giving out bad advice.

C(over) Y(our) A(ss).

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

He means you need to cut out the old metal, and either butt weld or
joggle and weld the replacement panel in place.

Of course, these are the 'proper' ways to do it.

If you want to 'bodge', then I'd cut out all the rot, cut the panel down
to slightly bigger than the area to be repaired, stick it in place with
Sikaflex-252, then skim with filler and paint.
--
SteveH

SteveH wrote:


I've ordered the part now, so that's what I'll probably do.

I've looked up the spec of Sikaflex-252, and it looks like it has
impressive strength, flexibility and vibration-dampening -- but it cures
with water from the atmosphere, which I presume means that it wouldn't
cure between two sheets of metal.  A web search for strong metal adhesive
turned up J-B Weld epoxy -- might that be better?

No idea, but I believe Sikaflex-252 is what the kiddies use to stick
their Ripspeed bodykits to their Corsas.
--
SteveH

If you just stick good steel over rusty, the new will rust too in short
order. It might give you the couple of years you want - but isn't good
practice.

--
*Is there another word for synonym?

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 9/08/2011 7:07 AM, Dave Rove wrote:

If you were to grind it back to clean metal both inner and outer even
widen the centre just nicky it up and reshape it with course paper 40
grit then 120 and get a grey primer pressure pack over the top. This
should last for about 2 rego checks this and the next.

Rob wrote:


 

I guess I'll need to buy tools to grind back to clean metal.  But I see in
the local Halfords that there's "Hammerite rust removal gel" that claims to
bare the metal (after a bit of wire brushing).  Or I see there's a "nylon
impregnated with silicon carbide" rust-removal wheel for a power-drill.  Or
should I invest in an angle grinder if I want to do it properly?

wrote:








=A320 of angle grinders well worth it. Heck you can get a Bosch GW660 fo=
r  =

=A338 at the moment.

Duncan Wood wrote:


20 minutes of work with a polywheel convinced me that wasn't adequate:

http://drove.imgur.com/car

So yes, I guess I will need an angle grinder.

Is this the one you mean?  Â£38.95 + £6.30 shipping.  Looks good so I might
well order it tomorrow:

(Amazon.com product link shortened)

Dave Rove wrote:


And what sort of wheel would be needed?

On 11/08/2011 7:55 AM, Dave Rove wrote:

You need a sanding disc 60 or  80 grit and a rubber backing pad. using
just the grinding wheel is too harsh and digs in, whereas the sanding
disk will flex and follow the surface better.


http://www.lelong.com.my/flexible-rubber-backing-pad-clamp-nut-100mm-ma-yrp100-82283843-2011-04-Sale-P.htm

and some disks.

On 11/08/2011 7:55 AM, Dave Rove wrote:

BTW when you use anything on the job place some masking tape over the
bar to stop it getting damaged - like you have done now.

wrote:




http://www.parkertools.co.uk/Product/826235

The rust removal gel is essentially phosphoric acid: it may help bond to
structurally solid metal but it's no help at all if you're painting it on
rust which is just going to flake off later.  You need to be fairly
vigorous to make sure you really are down to bare metal.

The polywheels are pretty good: not as destructive as wire wheels.  Dunno
what Halfords prices are like, but I used one of these:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/Wire+Abrasives/Poly+Abrasive+Wheel+100mm/d80/sd1920/p10332

Angle grinder may help if you can't get the wheel in to all the angles.
(100mm was the smallest I could find)

Theo