Winterproofing....

You're probably better off asking in uk.rec.cars.classic but here goes... There are two types of Waxoyl - the thin stuff for inside box sections, door bottoms, etc. and the thicker type with added bitumen (or something) for painting onto exposed areas of the underside. With the latter, you do as you describe, trying not to get too much on the exhaust and none on the brakes. It's best to hose off the underside of the car a day or two beforehand and then let it dry out thoroughly. Then plaster the stuff on liberally, paying special attention to any area where the underseal looks dodgy.

Don't just leave it at that though. It's well worth using the thinner stuff inside any box sections too. This is best done in the summer when it's warmer and the Waxoyl flows easier. At this time of year, you'll need to warm it up a bit first. Some suggest standing the can in a bucket of warm water. I prefer leaving it inside the car on a sunny day for an hour or two. Same effect. To get it into the box sections, you can buy the special pump up applicator thing, which'll just about work. Once. Then seize solid. I use an old fashioned garden spray pump instead. The aim is to get loads of the stuff in and then let it drain out of the drain holes into the containers you leave underneath to catch the excess. Then go back and check the drain holes aren't blocked a day or two later.

There are other, better products on the market, like Dinitrol, but Waxoyl is pretty good, IMO, and much cheaper and easier to find.

Equally as important is to make sure all the 'hidden' bits of the car are thoroughly protected by wax. Like the insides of box sections and doors etc.

IRTA standing the car in a bucket of warm water.

Opinions seem to differ on underseal. The problem is as it hardens it can lift a little in places, allowing water to get in behind it, where it can then sit. I don't see this as a problem providing you check it reasonably often and touch up as and when required. Plus underseal if left open for a couple of weks gets nice and thick, hides bad welding or pinholes beautifully ;)

Waxoyl is great for cavity protection, spray it in the doors, all box sections etc. And then use the Waxoyl underbody stuff instead of underseal.

Alternately be an environmental nightmare and spray your old engine oil over the underside and in the box sectios. It will need redoing quite often, and the oil will disperse into the environment, but it's effective and cheap :)

Very true. The nozzle is rubbish on them too in my opinion.

I picked one up free at the local tip for just this sort of thing. It gets used to spray degreaser on old engines, Waxoly, in fact anywhere it can come in handy. Being free I don't really care if eventually the plastic is ruined by the various chemicals, or it blocks up :)

Plastic? Mine's solid brass. It looks like a bicycle pump with a pipe stuck on the side. It doesn't pump pressurise anything with air, but pumps the Waxoyl directly. Pull back the handle to fill it up, then stick the end in a hole and discharge the lot.

(And if that's not a feed line, I don't know what is - carry on you filthy lot!)

I would wrap it in a warm garage and use a disposable car for winter.

Is that the Killaspray? I got one minus it's trigger and nozzle out of a skip. I fill it with gearbox oil, put the end of the pipe in the filler hole, pump it up and get on with something else while it fills up.

Steve

Best to do it in the summer (too late now). Keep it warm and thin with lots of white spirit. Place a big polythene dust sheet on the floor under the car. All the excess waxoyl will dribble out onto the sheet. When the solvent has evaporated to leave a waxy goo, scrape it up and put it back in the can. DaveK.

Sounds familiar. I wouldn't trust myself to clean it out enough to use it for filling anything that needs to be totally grit free, but it's already paid for itself degreasing stuff and blasting waxoyl down box sections ;)

================ If you want a really good job get the underside steam cleaned before you apply any undercoating. This cleaning won't get into most box sections but it makes the whole job much easier. Probably only worth it if you've got a car worth long term care.

Make sure you warn the operator to keep clear of the ignition or protect it with polythene. Steam cleaning seems to have a bad effect on ignition coils.

Cic.

It's a bit more than that for a decent job.

Spray underside as you've described. Also with a special tool which is a spraygun with a long thin flexi pipe with holes in the end, do the bottoms of all the doors which may involve removing the door trim. In addition to that, drill holes in the sills and spray inside them, plugging the holes.

In ye olden days, you could tell a car that had been Zeibarted (very good waxoyl system) by the amount of plastic plugs on the car.