Would worn brake pads cause caliper to leak?

My brakes started to make the metal to metal noise. It now seems to have developed a fluid leak. Would the metal to metal of the front brake pads caused the caliper to leak somehow? Not enough resistance or something?

Reply to
Jack Johnson
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If the seals on the piston are a bit worse for wear, the increased travel of the piston to push the pads may have provided for a leak. Get it seen to ASAP or prepare for an accident.

Reply to
Sandy Nuts

Hope you don't take your kids in it.

And yes, the extra travel can cause the caliper to leak.

Reply to
Conor

Will the leak stop with new pads? Or will it need a new seal or a new caliper? Are the calipers easy enough to replace?

Reply to
Jack Johnson

No, new pads will not stop the leak. What happens is over time, the bore wears and a ridge is created in the cylinder. When pads wear low, they go past this ridge and it rips the rubber sealing ring. When they've got to this point, you're better off getting reconditioned calipers. Most motor factors stock them and they should be around £50- £100 per side depending on make/model. Ideally you should change both as the other side won't be far behind. As you've let the pads get down to the metal, you're also going to need a new pair of brake discs too so budget another £40-£50. So parts wise you're looking at around £150- £250.

If you have to ask how to replace them, I suggest you don't as it is a safety critical part and there's things that can go wrong such as needing to make new brakepipes up because the unions on the old one have rusted into the caliper/flexihose. A garage can do both sides in

2hrs normally. Also use the opportunity to get new flexi hoses fitted as well.

Just think. If you'd have been arsed to service your car properly, you'd have been looking at £30-£40 for a new set of pads but now because you couldn't be arsed to look after an extremely critical safety item, it's gonna cost you £100's.

Reply to
Conor

No. Not by itself. If the calipers, pistons and seals were in good condition, it would be highly unlikely. However, an older caliper, might have worn pistons or seals, with corrosion on the pistons, which can be caused by not changing the brake fluid at least every 2 years. If they are corroded, the extended movement of the pistons could mean that the seals are bearing on the corroded area of a piston or pistons. If that were the case they would almost certainly leak, and the only cure is to replace the calipers, or possibly rebuild them with new pistons and seals. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

When you replace the fluid are you looking at bleeding the system right through to empty the reservoir or just far enough to be sure fresh fluid from the reservoir is in the lines?

If they are corroded, the

We used to get piston refurb kits for the Metros, contained seals and other parts, are these not the way to go?

Reply to
Billy H

You should never let the reservoir run completely dry. If you do that, there will be no fluid to push the old stuff out the lines. It's a slowish process that involves keeping the level topped up, air bubbles disappear and fresh fluid is flowing smoothly from the bleed nipples.

Reply to
Sandy Nuts

Right through but the idea is to shove enough through so there's non of the old stuff, not let the reservoir empty.

Not really as a corroded bore is still a corroded bore and all you're doing is putting a sticky plaster over a gaping wound. Getting nigh on impossible to find them too.

Reply to
Conor

Gotcha.

Gotcha again, I had trouble when I looked for a kit for my motor.

Reply to
Billy H

The idea is to remove ALL the old fluid, and replace with new. At the same time you do not want to allow air into the system, so the reservoir should never be emptied completely. Empty *nearly* all the fluid on the first bleed. Then fill the reservoir with new, and bleed again. Taking maybe about half a reservoir full from each bleed nipple. Topping up between bleeds of course.

Depends upon the condition of calipers. You may not have a choice. If they can be rebuilt, the cost savings of fitting new pistons and seals might not be worth the hassle. They can be a little tricky, especially to replace the piston dust shields, and if you're doing the job properly, the bleed nipples will probably need replacing along with new dust caps. I'm all for saving money, but unless there is a significant difference between the cost of new, compared to the price of all the parts needed to refurbish, inc nipples etc, I wouldn't bother. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

Depends where the corrosion is. As long as the corrosion is not in the seal undercut itself, the pitting one gets in the main bore is not a problem.

Getting nigh on

There are Co's that specialise in providing pattern pistons and seals, for the more popular calipers. Especially the more expensive ones. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

No, but you shouldn't be driving it. Wait until you try to stop quickly and the remains of the pad welds itself to the disc. You will have to get it all removed.

Reply to
Alf

No, it has nothing to do with the pads. You sound like the type of driver that doesn't care about safety and only replaces something if it falls off - rather than regular checks and routine maintenance. You need to take the car to a garage and get them to repair it properly for you. You will need a whole new assembly, brake pads, brake fluid etc. Leaving one item to become more and more faulty leads to expensive repairs.

Reply to
Alf

Don't wait... do it ASAP!!

Reply to
Billy H

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