My brakes started to make the metal to metal noise. It now seems to have developed a fluid leak. Would the metal to metal of the front brake pads caused the caliper to leak somehow? Not enough resistance or something?
If the seals on the piston are a bit worse for wear, the increased travel of the piston to push the pads may have provided for a leak. Get it seen to ASAP or prepare for an accident.
No, new pads will not stop the leak. What happens is over time, the bore wears and a ridge is created in the cylinder. When pads wear low, they go past this ridge and it rips the rubber sealing ring. When they've got to this point, you're better off getting reconditioned calipers. Most motor factors stock them and they should be around £50- £100 per side depending on make/model. Ideally you should change both as the other side won't be far behind. As you've let the pads get down to the metal, you're also going to need a new pair of brake discs too so budget another £40-£50. So parts wise you're looking at around £150- £250.
If you have to ask how to replace them, I suggest you don't as it is a safety critical part and there's things that can go wrong such as needing to make new brakepipes up because the unions on the old one have rusted into the caliper/flexihose. A garage can do both sides in
2hrs normally. Also use the opportunity to get new flexi hoses fitted as well.
Just think. If you'd have been arsed to service your car properly, you'd have been looking at £30-£40 for a new set of pads but now because you couldn't be arsed to look after an extremely critical safety item, it's gonna cost you £100's.
No. Not by itself. If the calipers, pistons and seals were in good condition, it would be highly unlikely. However, an older caliper, might have worn pistons or seals, with corrosion on the pistons, which can be caused by not changing the brake fluid at least every 2 years. If they are corroded, the extended movement of the pistons could mean that the seals are bearing on the corroded area of a piston or pistons. If that were the case they would almost certainly leak, and the only cure is to replace the calipers, or possibly rebuild them with new pistons and seals. Mike.
When you replace the fluid are you looking at bleeding the system right through to empty the reservoir or just far enough to be sure fresh fluid from the reservoir is in the lines?
If they are corroded, the
We used to get piston refurb kits for the Metros, contained seals and other parts, are these not the way to go?
You should never let the reservoir run completely dry. If you do that, there will be no fluid to push the old stuff out the lines. It's a slowish process that involves keeping the level topped up, air bubbles disappear and fresh fluid is flowing smoothly from the bleed nipples.
Right through but the idea is to shove enough through so there's non of the old stuff, not let the reservoir empty.
Not really as a corroded bore is still a corroded bore and all you're doing is putting a sticky plaster over a gaping wound. Getting nigh on impossible to find them too.
The idea is to remove ALL the old fluid, and replace with new. At the same time you do not want to allow air into the system, so the reservoir should never be emptied completely. Empty *nearly* all the fluid on the first bleed. Then fill the reservoir with new, and bleed again. Taking maybe about half a reservoir full from each bleed nipple. Topping up between bleeds of course.
Depends upon the condition of calipers. You may not have a choice. If they can be rebuilt, the cost savings of fitting new pistons and seals might not be worth the hassle. They can be a little tricky, especially to replace the piston dust shields, and if you're doing the job properly, the bleed nipples will probably need replacing along with new dust caps. I'm all for saving money, but unless there is a significant difference between the cost of new, compared to the price of all the parts needed to refurbish, inc nipples etc, I wouldn't bother. Mike.
No, but you shouldn't be driving it. Wait until you try to stop quickly and the remains of the pad welds itself to the disc. You will have to get it all removed.
No, it has nothing to do with the pads. You sound like the type of driver that doesn't care about safety and only replaces something if it falls off - rather than regular checks and routine maintenance. You need to take the car to a garage and get them to repair it properly for you. You will need a whole new assembly, brake pads, brake fluid etc. Leaving one item to become more and more faulty leads to expensive repairs.
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