Yaris hesitation when cold

2002 Toyota Yaris 1.5 T-Sport Engine code 1NZ-FE

The car suffers from a hesitation when first pulling away after a cold start, and occasionaly when changing up a gear. It misfires and feels like it will stall, but never does. Once the engine has a slight warmth, the problem disappears and the car runs perfectly. This takes about a mile, perhaps less, and it revs freely right from the word go, the problem is only apparent as one transfers load to the engine. The symptom is very much like the way a cold carb fed engine would perform with insufficient choke.

This problem first started when I replaced the OEM Denso plugs with NGKs:

Denso chart recommendation: K16R-U gapped at 0.8mm (that is straight from their website. Autodata contradicts this and says to use K16R-U11 with

1.1mm gap. The car was fitted with K16R-U when I acquired it.)

NGK recommendation: BKR5EY-11 gapped at 1.1mm

So, since they appeared to cause the prob, I removed the NGKs and got a new set of Densos, gapped them at 0.8mm, fitted them and the problem disappeared. For about 2k miles. Now, it has returned, yet the plugs are still like brand new and the gaps are still correct. Deposits are the normal light grey, with no fouling or evidence of poor combustion.

Could it be that the plugs are a red herring and the car has some other problem? Checks I have done so far are:

- Checked for intake air leaks using soapy water. Found none.

- Measured coil resistances, all four are between 21 and 23K

- Checked readout from CTS via OBD scan. Reads normally, i.e. around ambient temp when cold, rising to 80-90deg warmed up.

- Checked intake air temp readout as above. Reads ambient temp with a cold engine.

- Checked for any stored DTCs. None present.

- Measured TPS voltage: 0.54V closed, rising to 3.87V at WOT. No dead spots.

Any other ideas, please? It's a very small issue but doesn't seem right for an EFi car.

Reply to
Stu
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Plug leads?

Reply to
Duncan Wood

Or more relevantly, try looking under the hood in the dark & seeif you can see any tracking from the coils

Reply to
Duncan Wood

you cannot check for inlet leaks with soapy water, the leak will be sucking, not blowing, check for inlet leaks using a flammable liquid or gas, carb. cleaner is convenient with the engine running, any leaks that you spray over will cause a speed variation.

running the larger gap may have caused a tracking issue, which may have damaged one or more coils.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

I finally got around to replacing my plug leads last week, after putting up with my ageing Hyundai Accent doing exactly the same thing for a few months.

Changing the leads appears to have sorted it :-)

Reply to
Colin Wilson

I have an idea that the Yaris does not have any plug leads, but ICBW

Reply to
Mrcheerful

I think it's coil on plug, but they track as well.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

"Mrcheerful" wrote in news:AsYIm.2302$ snipped-for-privacy@text.news.virginmedia.com:

Thanks for your replies. The ignition is indeed coil-in-cap. I'll start it under cover of darkness in a couple of days (working nights right now)and look for any evidence of tracking. At the same time, I'll also check again for air leaks with whatever flammable spray I can lay my hands on. ;-)

Reply to
Stu

Stu wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk:

Update

Checked under the bonnet in darkness and nothing is glowing. Done another check for leaks with a flammable spray and nothing happened. The only idea I have left is to disable the fuel pump and try the coils on a spare plug, looking for a weak spark. Any other theories?

Reply to
Stu

it is extremely difficult to see a tracking spark on 'coil on plug' vehicles, and in any case if the misfire only occurs when the engine is loaded (ie not when ticking over then there will be nothing to see in any case.)

I would try a scrupulous clean of each coil pack and spray it well with wd40, clean the outsides of the plugs well too, and then try it, if there is an improvement then you are on the right track (no pun intended) the other problem is that the coil may be tracking internally like mondeo ones do and then the only way is to substitute with a known good pack.

there is also the possibility that the fault lies somewhere else completely, such as a tdc sensor.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Thanks, Mr Cheerful

I'll do as you suggest and see if I can get any noticable improvement. Failing that, I don't think it's worth getting into advanced diagnostics to try and solve a very small driveability issue that only affects a completely cold engine. I'll wait and see what develops. ;-)

Cheers,

Stu

Reply to
Stu

I realize this is a 10 year old post but did you ever figure out what was wrong? I have a Scion xa that is doing the EXACT same thing.

Reply to
Scionxa

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