Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement/Repair Advice

I've a 99 miata with a leaky slave cylinder. The problem's not to bad, but I need to keep an eye on the reserve. I plan on fixing it shortly - with you help.

I have three options:

  1. Have a dealer replace it ( 6.40 )
  2. Replace the cylinder myself (~ for the cylinder) + a few hours
  3. Repair the cylinder ( ) + a few hours

I would love to fix it myself, but I concerned about access to the cylinder and having room to do the job. I have a garage and standard tools - nothing fancy (no lift). I did read some posts from Miata.Net (made me feel like I can do this!).

One poster said that the repair can be done without removing the cylinder from the car. Anyone have experience doing this? Any problems, issues?

Bottom line - What's the best way to fix my slave cylinder at minimum cost?

TIA,

- Pat Plano, Tx

Reply to
Pat Dreiding
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Hi Pat, You can do it yourself ! (Two bolts and a hyd. line) Jack the front up, use jack stands, remove the right front tire, look in and you can see the clutch cyl. Remove the hyd. line first, remove the two bolts and you will have the cyl. off. Wha I hane found is that the alum. piston may be warn ! If it looks OK, you can just use a kit (NAPA has a good one). Use alki to clean the parts. When you put the cyl. back in, be sure to put "good" lub on the rod end. (fill the cyl before you put it back on the car.) There is NO adjustment needed. just bleed the system and go have fun. :-)

(Oh, if the piston is warn, get a new one over the miata.net or a replacement from NAPA.)

Bruce RED '91

Reply to
BRUCE HASKIN

You'll need to remove the cylinder to clean it properly before installing the rebuild kit (such as it is). Otherwise, you'll risk doing it again before too long.

Make sure you have a real flare nut wrench before you start.

Reply to
Lanny Chambers

Bruce - Some additional advice to go with your already good post: If it's AT ALL like the clutch slave on the RWD 626s (and your description is - except for one tiny detail - pretty close to word-for-word how I'd describe doing the slave on my 626) I'd recommend one minor tweak to your procedure: BREAK THE HYDRAULIC LINE LOOSE, yes. But don't even ATTEMPT to REMOVE it - until after you've pulled the two mount bolts. Then you can unscrew it by turning the whole cylinder, rather than twisting the bejeebers outta the hose by cranking on it while the cylinder is still bolted down.

Do exactly the reverse when it's time to re-hang it: Screw the line down finger-tight by spinning the cylinder onto it, set the mounting bolts, then once it's bolted back down good and solid, finish tightening the fitting that last 3/4-turn or so with a wrench. Much healthier for the line

Otherwise, a very good post on the subject of RWD Mazda clutch slave service.

Bleeding can be made quicker and easier (or even eliminated completely if done right) by first filling the slave, then (with a helper, if available) making sure the line is full of fluid before threading in the fitting. Usually, there's very little "bubble" to get rid of if you're careful, and I've had times where there was none at all - Just finish hanging it and drive away.

Reply to
Don Bruder

Thanks Don,

The Miata has a "hard line" to the cyl., but it is still a good idea to do what you have said. :-)

Thanks,

Bruce RED '91

Reply to
BRUCE HASKIN

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