Looking at buying a '92 Miata

"suseuser" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

I paid $4000 for mine a year back, it had new top, new brakes, new timing belt and new tires. Like most 1992s it came with power steering, power brakes, anti-lock brakes, power windows, cruise control and air conditioning. It was around 140,000 miles, the NADA book value on it today is $4,575. The Kelly Blue Book is $2,865 which seems low.

Your price seems VERY high. KBB on your mileage and same equipment as mine is $3,415 and the NADA is $4,800. I think Kelly is low and NADA is high, about $4,000 should be right.

$8,000 for a 14 year old car that has 91,000. Does that sound good to you? It doesn't sound good to me. I would sooner buy a much later year for the same money (though i prefer the look of the na1, the 89-97 that is, over the rest). shop ebay, autotrader, and craiglist.org. your miata is out there someplace. the seller has to realize that you don't get back much for upgrades. you do them for your personal benifit. And at 91k I wonder if the timming belt was ever done or if you are looking at a $600-$800 repair right out of the gates...

ps. bought mine in the dead of winter when nobody wanted to buy a convertible ;) so perhaps that is why my outlook on price is the way it is. spring/summer buyers certainly pay a premium.

It's actually a '93. And the timing belt hasn't been changed. I had a chance to drive it and it handles like new. You could eat off the engine compartment. The interior shows almost no wear at all. But, the exterior, on the bumpers did show some fading. And there were a few "parking lot" dings. So, it isn't perfect. It's not leather and it doesn't have the CD option. And I didn't notice a cruise control. I think folks may have misunderstood what I said his asking price was, he wants $6495 for the Miata. KBB put's it at $5225 and NADA puts it at $5100. So, he's still asking at least $1300 over high book value. When I drove it, I could tell it had never been abused. Everything worked tight. Shifting was smooth, clutch operation was fine, engine operation was fine, had great oil pressure at lower rpms. It just seemed like someones "weekend toy." I'm sure I could find a better deal. But, I would wonder about the cars history. But, there is no way I'd be driving the car anywhere without first changing the timing belt! Curtis Nampa, Idaho

"suseuser" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

No where NEAR that! Using YOUR zip code (83686), a 1993 is worth $3,790 per KBB. That's in EXCELLENT condition and you've described a car in "good" condition at best.

Just where are you looking?

$4,000 should be top dollar for that car.

XS11E wrote in news:Xns97B4DDCD37845xs11eyahoocom@70.169.32.36:

OK, KBB won't open the link so here's the info:

Vehicle Details Change Equipment Engine: 4-Cyl. 1.6 Liter Transmission: 5 Speed Manual Drivetrain: RWD Mileage: 91,000 Selected Standard Equipment AM/FM Stereo Cassette Selected Optional Equipment Air Conditioning Power Steering Power Windows Blue Book Private Party Value Private Party Value is what a buyer can expect to pay when buying a used car from a private party. The Private Party Value assumes the vehicle is sold "As Is" and carries no warranty (other than the continuing factory warranty). The final sale price may vary depending on the vehicle's actual condition and local market conditions. This value may also be used to derive Fair Market Value for insurance and vehicle donation purposes. Vehicle Condition Ratings Check Vehicle Title History Excellent $3,790 "Excellent" condition means that the vehicle looks new, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning. This vehicle has never had any paint or body work and is free of rust. The vehicle has a clean title history and will pass a smog and safety inspection. The engine compartment is clean, with no fluid leaks and is free of any wear or visible defects. The vehicle also has complete and verifiable service records. Less than 5% of all used vehicles fall into this category. Good (Selected) $3,415 "Good" condition means that the vehicle is free of any major defects. This vehicle has a clean title history, the paint, body and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems. There should be little or no rust on this vehicle. The tires match and have substantial tread wear left. A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning to be sold at retail. Most consumer owned vehicles fall into this category. Fair $2,950 "Fair" condition means that the vehicle has some mechanical or cosmetic defects and needs servicing but is still in reasonable running condition. This vehicle has a clean title history, the paint, body and/or interior need work performed by a professional. The tires may need to be replaced. There may be some repairable rust damage. Poor N/A "Poor" condition means that the vehicle has severe mechanical and/or cosmetic defects and is in poor running condition. The vehicle may have problems that cannot be readily fixed such as a damaged frame or a rusted-through body. A vehicle with a branded title (salvage, flood, etc.) or unsubstantiated mileage is considered "poor." A vehicle in poor condition may require an independent appraisal to determine its value.

• Idaho 04/29/2006

A person should pay what they are willing to pay and it sounds like you are willing to pay and want the car so go ahead buy the car.

Have fun and enjoy it.

yes, that is less than i originally understood, but still high. sounds like the owner wants the book value plus money back for his shock upgrade (but upgrades never add much if any to resale value). a super clean engine compartment on a car with 91k makes me more suspicious than happy. it should show signs of wear. if the owner had it steam cleaned than i would wonder what they are trying to hide. but that said, if you like the car, and feel that you know your local market in terms of price, and can stomach the expensive timing belt repair which should be done within the next 10k (scheduled to have been done at 60k but many wait until

100k), then go for it.

Sure, many of us have gotten ahold of Miatas in great condition, but not for that price. For $8095, I'd be happy sell you my '95 M-edition with 109k miles. It's in great condition, but even *it* isn't worth that much money. Heck, four years ago I only paid $9k for this car with 64k miles.

Don't pay a lot of extra money for a Miata that seems to be in great condition; there are a lot of Miatas available that have low mileage and have been taken care of properly.

3 weeks ago, I bought a pristine 2000 that turned 37K miles as I was test driving it, for $10,000.

I LOVE the car. Almost (grin) as much fun as my 59 Austin Healey (which has no A/C).

Tim

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I decided to pass on the Miata. It's just too much money. Not worth it after thinking about it. Thanks for the advice. I'll keep my eyes open for the right deal. I've seen half a dozen Miata's for sale locally and they are without exception overpriced. Even the very poor condition ones. I just don't get it. Curtis

"suseuser" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

I agree and think you've made a wise choice.

My guess is you live in an area where there aren't a lot of used ones for sale. You might have to take a look in some nearby area or maybe even look at Ebay. If you can find 3 or 4 in a large city such as Los Angeles it might be cheaper for you to fly there, pick out a good one and drive it home.

that sounds like the right thing to do. who knows, this seller may come back looking for you with a new price... for a reality check, have a look at carmax.com. they are a national used car dealer that has a no haggle price and 30 day warranty. remember, this is a dealer so expect them to ask the high dealer price... but that should get you thinking as to what is the right price to pay. a private party sale price should be some place between what the dealer would pay for a car and what a dealer would sell a car for.