Miata se 2002 problems

I traded in my beloved 91 racing green se in last year on a yellow mica 02 Miata. It looks lovely. But I've picked up some anomalies. When I spoke to the dealership they couldn't find anything wrong--and I do think they tried, they're a good bunch. These are the problems. I wonder if anyone else has noticed them.

- When shifting into 3rd gear on starting, at 2700 revs or so I get a kick--a kind of oomph as if I floored the accelerator which I didn't. It does this once and then seems to settle down.

- The clutch release point is inconstant. Most of the time it's fine. sometimes it seems to shift, so I'm over-revving when I change.

- In first gear the clutch feels like it's slipping sometimes

- (Really weird) The audio system volume is inconstant as well. It goes quieter when I cut the speed.

All this sounds like an inconsistant gas flow or something.

I know there is a 'variable flow gasket' or some such on the engine. I wonder if mine is faulty.

(I've driven shift since I learned to drive illegally when I was 13 years old. I've never ever burnt out a clutch. Honest, I've never had these problems before.)

Reply to
Helen Heller
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Sounds like electrical problems

What brand of Audio system is it. I wasn't aware they has petrol powered audio systems .. as well.

Reply to
Col:

I don't have any of those problems with my 2002SE except the sound system -- its designed to adjust the volume as the ambient noise level changes. I assume it does this based on engine speed. The feature can be adjusted through 6 different levels, and it can also be turned off.

Reply to
SFK

The OEM Bose 6 disc changer that came on the SE has a speed sensitive volume mode. By pushing the right knob you will be able to set the mode (Top Up 1-3 and Top Dwn 1-3) or turn it off.

-Rod

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Helen Heller) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

Reply to
a

Running the A/C has this effect for me. I always turn off the A/C as I enter an area that will require shifting.

Yah... I learned to drive in Dad's manual '76 Scout with the slant 4, eventually graduating to my own very rough '66 Chevy with a 283 V8 (primer red!). They drove a bit different than the Miata.

Oh BTW, there is a rev limitter, so you can't over rev a Miata :-)).

Joe

Reply to
Joe

You can, but you have to work at it. If you downshift to too low a gear for the speed of the car, you can over rev it and the rev limiter won't help.

Reply to
Hank Barta

Thanks for the info on the radio...I should have read the handbook better!

As for the crazy gearshift: the car really labors when the a/c is on. I understand that. The car doesn't have emough power for the a/c not to be a drag on it. However when the car first starts I almost never get a smooth change in the lower gears. First gear is a real adventure in clunkiness. I've tried giving it more gas, I've tried giving it less gas. Sometimes it's smooth, sometimes it clunks like the prewar Standard 8 that I learned to drive on. Sometimes the clutch seems to slip and there's a perceptible lag between the clutch engaging and the accelerator kicking in--again especially in first gear. I've had it checked. The guys at the dealership say it's fine and every diagnostic checks out. I think this problem is down to the variable power thingy that the car comes equipped with. It's supposed to smooth the ride down and adjust to driving conditions. Well either it's not working or something else isn't. I know there's a huge difference between the '91 Miata and this car. This one has all kinds of computers and checks and balances. Fine. I wish I'd never traded that beauty in. This car is really making me crazy. I'm starting to think I should have gone for a Mini this time around.

Reply to
Helen Heller

Have the dealer check the clutch per the below bulletin and replace it under warranty.

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Reply to
Zeno

I have a 2001 se, and it possesses similar to yours problems with the transmission. I replaced the clutch (there is a TSB for that), and it was OK for a while, for another 10K or so. Now the problem is back again. Instead of enjoying the shifting this car makes me concentrate on it, and I personally think, that Mazda eventually screwed up the most important part of the car. I think of dumping it next year and replace with S2000. I heard that installing an after market clutch might help to cure the problem 'though.

MINI is a front wheel drive car, it might be good, but it is different.

Vlad

Reply to
Vlad

Thank you so much for that TSB. I'm calling my dealership tomorrow. That is exactly the problem I'm having and it's driving me wild. You're right, you have to concentrate every time you shift gear on this car and it takes away all the joy of driving standard shift. I used to pride myself on a satin-smooth change. Now I can't!

I mentioned the Mini because I really thought about getting one. The reason I didn't was because (1) It wasn't a convertible. (2) My 91 Miata was the best car I ever had and (3) I got a Mini Cooper--a real one!--for my 17th birthday way, way back in the day. It was a lot of fun. But I've been there and done that.

Chances are I w> > Thanks for the info on the radio...I should have read the handbook > > better! >

Reply to
Helen Heller

Good luck with the dealership. Actually in my case they replaced the clutch without hesitation first time. When the problem reoccurred and I asked them to fix it again, they were unable to reproduce it.

The car is not bad, in fact it is very good, just a little annoying problem with the transmission, that's all. I just happened not to like the car anymore, must've grown out of it;)

Vlad

Reply to
KIP

I too have trouble with the clutch after the dealer replaced it. I have driven manuals all my life and I have never had a car with a clutch that would randomly grab like this.

As I noted here before, most likely Ford Management found a clutch plate material that is "just as good" for several pennies less. "A few pennies add up to real money if you multiply it by 10,000 Miatas!" Of course, it is unlikely that Ford Management have ever driven a nonautomatic in their live, so if the clutch material lasts the warranty period, all seems fine to them.

I am sure the share holders admire Ford Management's cost cutting. The trick is to be on the next rung of the corporate ladder when the effect on customer loyalty becomes visible, so that the guy/girl who replaces you can take the blame for that.

I may just have an independent shop I used before replace the clutch again. It is driving me crazy enough to deal with having my only car in the shop once more.

Le>Helen Heller wrote:

Reply to
Leon van Dommelen

You guys have been incredibly helpful. Thanks! I'm taking the car in next week. I am really peeved that my dealership didn't point out this TSB when I started complaining about clutch problems. If the new clutch doesn't fix it I don't see how my own mechanic can. So if it still doesn't work I guess I'll drive it until I can't stand to drive it any longer and then I will not get another Miata.

This breaks my heart as that 91SE was hands down the best car I have ever owned.

Are there any other TSBs I should know about? (I just found out there was a recall on the foglights for this vehicle...)

Reply to
Helen Heller

Take a look at

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for a listing ofall TSB's.

I have had a few things corrected in my 2001 and found that it really help to have a printed TSB in hand when I walk into the dealer.

"Helen Heller" wrote

Reply to
Thomas Misek

Thanks all of you. I got my clutch changed and the car is much better.

Reply to
Helen Heller

I too had clutch shudder on my 96 after the dealer replaced the clutch, and generally lousy shifting. It too was solved by having an independent shop replace the clutch again. (They also refinished the flywheel.) I made sure to tell them *not* to get a Mazda kit.

I wonder how much money Ford management saved with replacing the clutch friction material with a just-as-good cheaper material. Must have been at least a dollar per clutch, not? Could surely not have been as little as 10 pennies?

As far as other recent problems: sound problem may have been the heat shield. Heat shield seemed OK, not cracked or anything, but some spot welds keeping it to the down pipe apparently were broken. Also had a hole cut to allow the wide band oxygen sensor. A few tactfully placed hose clamps, and as good as new.

No more oil dripping from the lip after oil filter relocation kit taken out and carefully deposited in garbage can. Oil consumption is *noticeably* lower, though there is still some.

Leon

Reply to
Leon van Dommelen

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