NA Sticky Exterior Door Handle

My passenger side exterior door handle does not snap back when opened. It has to be pushed back flush with the door in order for the door to latch/close properly. I have tried squirting some WD40 into the latch behind the handle but that only marginally helped. If I remove the handle from the door and give it a complete cleaning will it function normally again or should I look for a replacement? There is talk about this problem on miata.net but it is unclear if cleaning is a permanent fix or if people had to replace the spring. If a spring replacement is the answer where might I get a replacement spring? Many thanks for your advice.

Reply to
Christopher Muto
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The last one of these I saw turned out to be caused by a broken off pot metal thingy that held one end of the spring. I think that you are going to need to do a little door dis-assembly to really find out what is going on.

Reply to
Chuck

If it's the spring you probably can't open the door with the handle too. This because of the latch being stuck in the closed-position. If this is not the case, it soon will be and replacing the spring isn't easy with a closed door. So take action while you can and clean the spring (and replace the spring). This one can be found at Rosenthal or mx5parts.co.uk.

Jeroen

"Chuck" schreef >> My passenger side exterior door handle does not snap back when opened.

Reply to
Jeroen Feelders

Thanks Chuck. It isn't a particularly hard job but it gets messy when you lift that plastic vapor barrier because of that tar like glue so I don't want to have to go in there twice... will learn from your experience and get a spare handle before i go in there. Thanks again.

Reply to
Christopher Muto

Thanks Jeroen. Are you saying that I can get a new spring from rosenthal (finishlineperformance.com)? i only saw the entire handle there. Many thanks.

Reply to
Christopher Muto

Call Rosenthal and ask. You want to speak to Tommy Grimes (aka The Parts Dood).

Reply to
Lanny Chambers

Since the asphalt "sticky stuff" is so messy, I usually cut the plastic (razor blade), then use Duct Tape when things go back together. If you cut so that the door structure is behind the cut, it makes it easier to tape back together. The asphalt is usually in an inch or so in from the edges of the door metal structure. Don't forget to lube the window mechanism while things are apart. (helps keep the plastic "chains" from breaking, and electric motors (if you have them) from doing such things as stripping gears or cooking the window switches.)

Reply to
Chuck

Now there's good advice on TOP of good advice! :-) Chris

99BBB
Reply to
Chris D'Agnolo

My 99SBB has, at one time or another, had my hands in just about everything but the engine innards and the rear axle guts. One of the tasks involved adding insulation matting to the trunk, "tunnels", and under all the carpeting. A really painful task (I have a bad back) was adding in dash wiring for the turbo and added gauges in the center console. Another fun one was to add a power cable for a Valentine RD inside the windshield trim, and wire additional courtesy lights, with wires going to the base of the windshield pillar. I had to take the seats out, and build up/cushion the floor to keep my back happy. Sound mats were added to the door panels when I added the rest of the mats.

Reply to
Chuck

Thanks Chuck, that is an excellent idea. I had to replace the driver's side window once and have bad memories of the goo ;)

Reply to
Christopher Muto

Thanks Lanny, will do.

Reply to
Christopher Muto

Turns out that they don't sell just the spring anymore. ;(

Reply to
Christopher Muto

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