NB Timing Belt life

I know the standard stuff, scheduled replacement @ 60k, but non-interference so, why not go to 90k, it probably still won't break.

Well, I'm nearing 90k and I know I'm going to have to do this but, can anybody tell me of an NB timing belt that DID actually break and at what mileage it happened?

I would appreciate any accurate info.

Thanks, Chris

Reply to
Chris D'Agnolo
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Oh also, since I know I'm about there, who's got the best price out there? Probably better do the waterpump, right? What about the valve cover gasket? Clean it up and re-use with silicone?

Thanks, Chris

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Reply to
Chris D'Agnolo

I don't think I'd shop on price alone. Genuine Mazda parts really are better. Here's a $199 kit from FM that includes the tensioner and idler pulleys, which you'll probably need as well:

If you don't, it's sure to fail before the next timing belt change.

No way, they tend to harden over time and weep oil into the spark plug wells. This is one part that doesn't need to be OEM, though it's always included in kits.

Reply to
Lanny Chambers

Well, if you live in California, at 90 thousand, you have ten thousand more miles to go. I guess the rest of us are harder on belts, since we would be

30 thousand beyond recommended change at 90 thousand on the original belt. At 60 thousand, on my 99, the only signs of wear were rubber dust, and a slight rounding of the belt teeth when compared to a brand new belt. The old original belt had also stretched about one tooth to tooth distance. Replaced Belts Water pump Idler and tension pulleys Various gaskets Did not replace cam or crank seals. I suggest that you also replace the "half moon" plug at the rear of the head to valve cover and, consider replacing the heater hoses. (Since things are easier to get to, and the valve cover is out of the way.)

I'm not far behind you at 84k miles.

Reply to
Chuck

Good thoughts Chuck! I hadn't given much thought to the radiator hoses but you are right, good time to do it. I really enjoy the part where I replace the 'spring clamps' with a good quality one when I mess with them :-)

Thanks, Chris

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Reply to
Chris D'Agnolo

I really don't much care for either the spring clamps or the "aircraft style" clamps carried by the usual auto parts stores. FM had some "high end" clamps that are spring loaded, and there are other style clamps as well that seem to be better than the usual choices at the auto parts stores. The auto parts stores seem to specialize in having clamps that are too long or too short.

Hoses are a bit of a pain on my 99. Turbo oil & coolant hoses (the coolant hoses get brittle and crack under the heat shield.) Fuel line hoses going to the extra injectors. (Original FM supplied hoses cracked after about two years of use.) Let's not forget the hose going to the "Piggy" that tells it what the boost pressure is, and tees to an O2 clamp switch and the boost gage.

And then there is the case of those miserable "quick disconnect" fuel line fittings on the filter, tank, and in the engine compartment. They can be a real pain to get to release, and just as difficult to get to lock properly.

Reply to
Chuck

Ouch! you got allota hose issues ;-)

Chris

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Reply to
Chris D'Agnolo

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