need advice on Tranny problem, 92 stick

Sounds like the classic case of a failing slave cylinder, or possibly a master and slave. The inside of the rubber bellows on the rod end of the slave cylinder is likely full of fluid. ~ $50 replaces the slave (you do it), oe you may be able to find and use a rebuild kit. ~$20 (You supply the hone and elbow grease.) A few hints-- Loosen the fluid line fittings at the slave cylinder before you remove the mounting bolts. Have something to plug the open fluid line while the slave cylinder is not connected to it. Flush the system before you remove the slave cylinder. Prefill the new slave cylinder, and let what will drain out do so. This helps to prelubricate the new seals and cylinder wall before use. Use thick high temp grease to lubricate the rod end(s). This helps to prevent squeaks when the clutch is operated. You must bleed the system after the slave cylinder is mounted. A pint or two of new brake fluid should be enough for the whole job. Wash off any brake fluid when done. (It smells)

"~Mike Hollywood" wrote in message news:_Qo%h.9104$ snipped-for-privacy@bignews1.bellsouth.net...

No question in my mind you've got one or two bad cylinders. It's the kind of thing where it's made noticeable by air in the line...but how did that air get in there? Bad cylinder! The slave is more likely to go, and it's really not all that hard to rebuild, if you're fairly handy. Just wear some kind of waterproof mechanics gloves...you'll have your hands in SO much brake fluid.

If the slave turned out to not be the (only) problem, and you end up rebuilding the master cylinder, get a set of circlip pliers before you start. It's a $10 tool that will save you three hours of cursing (and probably $10 of beer, the way most of you guys work :-P ). Other than that...the only challenges i had were a)pulling the bolts to get the damn thing off the car and b)putting everything in the slave cylinder in the wrong order. I pissed brake fluid for ten minutes before i realized what I might have done. Get the pages from the manual, do it right, and on a warm night. Best of luck.

-r0ll

Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies. YOu were right on. Guess what? I left it in reverse overnight and this afternoon started it up, and it proceeded to go backwards all by itself. I think the master does that. Since it's a '92 I'm thinkin' the bores are pitted, so I'm going to replace both units instead of rebuilding them. price wise, here's what I found :

PBR - Clutch Master Cylinder - $58.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.

Tokico - Clutch Master Cylinder - $68.99 Performance Suspension Parts & Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Cylinders.

Aftermarket - Clutch Master Cylinder - $34.99 High Quality Stock Replacement Parts.

Raybestos - Clutch Master Cylinder -

$66.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.

PBR - Clutch Slave Cylinder - $37.99 Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Parts.

Tokico - Clutch Slave Cylinder - $57.99 Performance Suspension Parts & Stock Replacement Brake & Clutch Cylinders.

Raybestos - Clutch Slave Cylinder - $40.99 Quality Stock Replacement Parts.

Vero Fl. Mazda Dealer: master $101 Slave $ 81

Is it a good idea to buy from the dealer for $192 what I can get on line for $76? I mean are the dealer parts any better?

Thanks,

Mike

The dealer's parts are generally no better than name brand replacement parts, and, in fact, may be the same as the replacement part.

They usually *are* the dealer part. Few others will make the casting. What might change is the internal parts--but not in a way that is significant to keep them from working. Get the cheapest, and if it ever breaks again, just rebuild. (and hold on to that old casting!)

Best of luck, let us know what happens!

-r0ll