Seizing Parking Brake Cable

Scott Hughes wrote in news:e61d74$t2j$ snipped-for-privacy@newsreader.wustl.edu:

Btw, I saw a post from a couple years ago about a possible sticking parking brake. Someone suggested that applying the brake (pedal) after you back out of the driveway (rather than just throwing it in 1st and taking off) would release the brake caliper. I don't know why there would be any reason this would only help when backing up, but either way, would using the brake (pedal) release the caliper if the parking brake cable was sticking?

-Scott

I had a similar situation with my '90 in that the left rear caliper would not release. You might try manually releasing it by reaching in from the front of the wheel, finding the cable, following it to the lever on the caliper and giving the lever a push towards the rear of the car (with the brake released, of course). If it snaps into position and releases the caliper, it's probably not the cable. Also, if the other side is working properly, you should rule out the caliper before messing with the cable.

On my car, I fixed this by installing a new caliper assembly. It was a pretty simple job.

Ken

Scott,

This is actually a common problem. Can I ask what makes you so sure it's the cable sticking that is causing the problem? It it far more likely that the adjustment of the rear caliper piston is off. There are a number of write-ups on

in the Garage section on how to readjust your rear brakes. All you need is a (12mm?) wrench and an

8mm hex key (same size as a skate key.) It's also possible that the adjustment of the emergency brake cable at the caliper has gotten knocked out of wack...have you been off-roading hmmmm? Find a walk-through for this adjustment (I'd tell you this one, but I'm no e-brake expert) and adjust both sides. While you've got the wheels up, you may as well lubricate the lower *and* upper slider pins on the calipers on both sides with high temp caliper lube. You will be surprised how much that little lubrication will help your braking ability. I say, if it's been a year since your last brake service, you should flush your brake system, bleed all four corners, replace pitted, rusty, or worn slider pins (only $6 each) and lubricate the heck out of them, check/replace your pads, adjust the rear brakes and the e-brake cable, torque down your wheels and go for a drive! It's never a bad day to work on the Miata...

Also...stepping on the brake compresses the piston, which helps release sticky slider pins and the parking brake mechanism (if it's released enough.) Sometimes the "moving backwards" braking works better because the caliper (and thus the e-brake bracket) get torqued up and back...which could help to free it up as well. Search around the forums on miata.net for "stuck parking brake" and similar terms, and you'll probably find what you need. You probably won't have to pay a mechanic for this--brakes, while often very frustrating, are very easy to work on.

Keep us posted, and best of luck!

-r0ll

Scott Hughes wrote:

"r0lliSl1fe" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@c74g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

2 reasons: 1, my mechanic said so; and 2, I already bought new cables to replace the "bad".. :)

There's two symptoms I was going on that I need new brake cable(s).

1: My brake handle comes up pretty freely w/ very little effect. I have to pull it way up to get any bite at all out of the brakes. I know now that means I should have made some adjustments, but I only found that info recently and probably already did significat damage by using the parking brake in this fashion for a while. 2: Last time I change my brake pads (couple months ago), the right side was worn down a lot, and the left had plenty left on it. Obviously something was screwed up and when I had the car in to have the clutch replaced, my mechanic noticed the problem w/ the p.brake.

Yeah, I've seen that, haven't tried it tho. I was hoping to find instructions for replacing the cable, but it doesn't appear that's been posted anywhere.

No offroading lately. :) I'll look into that tho.

Thanks for the replies..

-Scott

I've always suspected that those people that jam the handbrake lever up as far as they can are only damaging the brake system. I've always pulled the handle up only to the point that it holds the car in place and haven't had any problems.

Thanks for this tip. Just what happened to my '91 this morning. I removed the wheel, freed up the lever with a light tap and applied some WD40 for now. Works fine.

It will have to wait for winter for a proper fix.

Marc

p.s. What is the proper torque setting for the wheel nuts?

66 - 86 foot pounds. I usually go with 78 to 80.

Pat