190E Daily Driver Opinions?

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Went and looked at a 190E 2.3 today. It's a 1986, family owned since new, 117,000 miles. Wiper didn't work, no service history, I don't think the heat worked, and it had some rust around the wheel archs, bottom of the
doors and trunk area. Ran and drive well and the interior looked like new. I would obviously have the car checked out before I made an offer, but if the car has been well cared for would it make a good, reliable daily driver, and what would be a fair price?
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$1500 - $2100 tops because of rust! Only the low mileage is what makes this attractive.
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By all means have the car checked by a good mechanic before you spend your money. Heater repairs can be very expensive. Plan on spending at least an extra $1,000 the first year of ownership. You will soon need a catalytic converter or require other minor repairs such as non functioning wipers... After that, you'll be fine.
Paddington wrote:

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Could be something simple. My entire climate control didn't work, woulda been a fortune to replace, so I got me a basic electronics book and traced the problem to a burned out circuit in control panel; soldered that and everything started working like a charm. Don't worry too much about peripherals, make sure that the car is mechanically sound first.
cp
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Which it isn't, because based on the description it needs rust repairs that could easily cost upwards of $3500.
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True...

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I think your right, I went back tonight after the dealership was closed (pesky salesman annoy me) and on the drivers side rear door sill the rust has eaten through the body, about the size of a quarter.
I might offer them $1500 for the car and see if I can get it for a steal, but I probably won't want to pay anymore than that. I do admit, the interior of the car looks perfect.
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Well figure on $800 just to fix the rust on that one door sill. (hopefully its on the lower rear corner of the doorsill).

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So what is the problem.....Get the car for a low ball price.....patch the rust with bondo or fiberglass after chemically treating the rust and drive it untill the wheels fall off. Peter

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http://www.mercedessource.com/rust/rusthome.html

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Remember,its taking the brunt of abuse in the school parking lot hence the reason for buying it! If they don't take $1500 then walk away!As long as you don't fall through floorboard due to rust,then by all means get it and if you do regret buying it I'm sure a long line will form at your school to buy it.Maybe even make a profit off of it and sell for more to get a better Mercedes,oh I don't know a W116 or W123 but I'm biased on these models.
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Thanks for the help so far, this has been the most helpful group yet. I'll go over on Monday and haggle for it, if we agree on a acceptable price i'll take it over to my Porsche mechanic and let him do a PPI. I'm still a little worried about the car only starting out of 2nd gear unless I pushed the pedal all the way down to the kick down spot.
I'm a little scared to go with an old German car for college, my Porsche is excellent for reliability but we also have an 85 BMW 635CSi which is a money pit! I've read nothing but great things about the 190, but I look at it and still can't help but think what if it needs a fortune.
I'm glad to hear the 2.3 is easy to work on. College for me is in the country in a Ford/Chevy only type town, so i'll be learning to do some of this stuff myself...perhaps i'll need a good workshop manual to go with it.
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I don't think it is all that serious on the auto trans.Maybe needs some adjustment $0.00 for you if you do it yourself! Or it may just be like that and takes off in 2 instead of 1 for ???????Hey off subject,but do you have a spare drivers fender and drivers side headlight assembly for a 635csi? My buddy in Hawaii just bought one last Tuesday and is having a mother of a time finding certain parts!Sorry to all others,I know this isn't the BMW board but when the gettin is good..........
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Actually, isn't that normal? My 300D starts off in 2nd, it'll do 1st if I really kick it.
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Mercs (older ones at least) are set to drive off in 2nd unless pushed.
DAS
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On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 09:47:05 +0100, "Dori A Schmetterling"

That's certainly the case with my 1989 190e. To take off in 1st you either sink the boot in hard or move the lever into 2nd, whereupon it'll take off in 1st even on a light throttle. It was designed that way.

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Do you guys ever sleep? My '86 190E always starts in 2nd right from the beginning. No joke, but I read somewhere that the reason is to avoid spinning the wheels in wet or slippery pavement. My 190 has over 194,000 miles and I drive it daily. Enjoy.
Paddington wrote:

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I suggest trying to find a good '90 up 2.6 go to: www.mercedes.cx/ and punch in 190E.
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I think all MB's do that after 1985. I'm not familiar with the 190's shiftgate, but does it have a D, 3, 2, B shifter? If so, stop the car, stick it in B, then stick it in D, then start moving. Did it start off in first? I know this works on the 420 and 560. Richard
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No, it's just D-3-2. When I go drive it tomorrow i'll see if there is like a button that lets you control what gear it starts in, like the W and S button in our E320. That seems pretty annoying and stupid it would start in second everytime unless you floor it.
CaptainW116 - Nope no spare parts for the sixer. What year is your car?
I'll let yoy guys know what happens tomorrow. This car is on a used car lot, but a used lot that has a lot of more expensive high end cars like new Audis, Mercedes, Cadillacs, etc. etc. So they might be looking to move an old 86 off the lot even if it's a low ball price.
Thanks for your help.
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