1960 Diesel timing question

I have been working on a 1960 190D diesel. The injector pump is back in but there is a discrepancy in the beginning of feed between the #1 and #4 cylinders. When I am at 26 BTDC on #1 and then turn the crankshaft to #4 it
begins the feed at 33 to 35 BTDC. The number 2 & #3 cylinders begin to feed at the same point on the crankshaft ( I marked the spot). Should I just set the #1 to 26 BTDC and forget about the #4 cylinder or split the difference between the tow cylinders? The pump is in need of calibration I assume but I need to drive this car to the DMV to get the VIN number verified before I tackle any more repairs. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Stu Ritter I hope you see this. wolf
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My non-expert opinion is to set the IP so it's correct for #1. #4 is, IMHO, a calibration problem within the rebuilt IP that can be corrected later.
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Thanks..I think you are right and I will just set it up with #1 correct and deal with #4 and the IP later, wolf "> My non-expert opinion is to set the IP so it's correct for #1. #4 is,

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I spent 2 months getting my 1960 190D motor running and got it started yesterday. Bought new tires. Tried to put it in gear today and could not do it. With the engine off the gears shift OK but it appears the clutch is "not working" . The linkage is intact and it moves as best as I can see but is apparently not separating. Is it frozen form 20 year's of neglect? How do I check this out further? Thanks wolf
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Hi Wolf,
Have you checked whether the clutch is getting the movement of the clutch pedal? Linkage could be bad or, if hydraulic, no fluid etc.
If you see movement at the bell housing the clutch is locked in its engaged position.
Cheap and dirty - put the car into 1st or reverse - whichever direction the car can be moved - step on the clutch, step on the brakes and hit the starter. It may pop free. Be careful.
If it doesn't release you probably have to remove the transmission to get to the clutch.
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It is certainly worth a try. The linkage is OK and I can move the linkage underneath the cat by hand but I think you are right the "clutch " is probably frozen to the flywheel. I have never tried your "trick" but IT IS DEFINITELY WORTH A TRY! I will let you know if it works Thanks wolf1

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I think I may be in luck I just "blocked" the clutch for 2 days and went back today to try your trick and it appears the clutch must have broken loose in the interim. Car moved with the clutch out and starter turning; did not move with the clutch pushed in. I need to get it started again for the acid test. Thanks again. wolf1
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That's really good news, certainly better than removing the transmission only to find it stuck by a light rust film!
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Thasnk you for your help. Greatly appreciated. wolf1

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