1980 450sl does not run when warm

My 450sl starts fine and will run for about 5 minutes until it gets warmed up. At that point it starts to run so lean that is stalls. I have tested the fuel pressure 73psi (both warm and cold) and it is within specs. I did a fuel volume test both when it was cold and warm

- ok. The pump and filter were replaced about 2, 000 miles ago.

I tested the control pressure from the warm up regulator to the fuel distributor. Cold the pressure was 22 psi, warm 50 psi. Both within the spec.

When I warm the car up and it will not run, if I hold the mass air flow senser down a little enriching the mixture the car will run.

I have not tested the lambda control, but not sure that if it was failing could lean the car out so much it would not run.

Reply to
Sam
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Then adjust the fuel mixture with 2.5mm allen wrench in that hole by the air flap...It is too rich which is why it died when hot.

Reply to
Tiger

Tyger, the mixture must allways be adjusted with the car at normal temp, isn't it? My 2 cents: If you find lambda after the car is at normal temp, measure the fuel pressure at the intake fule line: this pressure must remain for 30 minutes or near that even with the car not running; if not, you have a bad fuel pressure accumulator. RSalles

Reply to
mobi

No, not necessirly... if you change the distributor, the car will not start up, so you have to fiddle around with the mixture setting until the car starts up.

Once the car is warm, you do the final adjusting. In this case, I am assuming the car is running lethargically during the warm up... so by the time it is warm, the engine will die from too rich of fuel mixture.

He/she didn't mention hard starting issue... which is what you are thinking of. and the technique you are talking about is for static fuel pressure that will tell you why you have hot start issue.

Reply to
Tiger

As Tiger says, the basic mixture is set by the screw next to the air flap (air mass meter). This should be adjusted when engine is warm.

During warm up (2-3 minutes) a warm-up regulator will enrichen the mixture and gradually decrease the enrichment with the rise in engine temparature.

Your situation could be, that your basic setting is too lean, but due to the warm-up enrichement, it will run until warm, i.e. until enrichment stops.

Reply to
Jens

=2E...on the other hand, if the engine previously has been running well with the present setting of the mixture screw, you should not change it but instead look the cause of the change!

Definately you are running too lean, since pressing the air flap provides better running condition.

I can see two possible reasons for the lean mixture:

1) If you have an intake manifold vacuum leak, which allow air to bypass the air meter (flap).

2) Defective oxygen sensor, lamda control circuit or frequency valve.

At normal operating the output voltage from the oxygen sensor will fluctuate between 0.1 and 0.9 volts, where 0.1 volts represents too lean mixture and 0.9 volts represents too rich mixture. If the oxygen sensor is stuck in the "rich position", it will cause the frequency valve to lean the mixture. Or if the frequency valve is stuck in the "lean position" (either by itself or by wrong signal from the control unit), you would have the same symptom.

When both above things are cleared, the output of the oxygen sensor should fluctuate as said with a duty cycle around 50%. The ealier mentioned mixture screw is used to adjust this.... but of course only when everything else is OK.

Reply to
Jens

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