1997 Mercedes E320 Fan Speed

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Still looking for information on the problem with my climate control fan speed. When I bought the car the fan speed increased and decreased on demand. Now it seems it will only come on in a low speed. Through 1995 these cars used four resistors to regulate the speed. The location of the resistors was behind the master cylinder on those cars. I don't find them there on my car, if in fact that is still the method of fan control. I've asked for help on this subject and other topics many times in the past and have received zero help or comments. So I'm asking again,
1) DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT? 2) DOES ANYONE KNOW THE ANSWER TO MY DILEMMA? (Different question) 3) CAN ANYONE ARTICULATE THAT ANSWER IN TEXT?
If this problem is beyond the knowledge and abilities of the experts out there then I'll confine my questions in the future to simpler stuff. I thought this news group was an exchange of ideas and information. I have responded to many requests for help in the past where I had the same experience and found a solution and was rewarded with emails thanking me for the help and confirming my advice worked. I'll continue to do so since there are many people out there who expect the other members to help where they can.
Thanks, Ken
--------------030805020704070703090609 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> <html> <head> <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1"> <title></title> </head> <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#ffffff"> Still looking for information on the problem with my climate control fan speed. When I bought the car the fan speed increased and decreased on demand. Now it seems it will only come on in a low speed.<br> Through 1995 these cars used four resistors to regulate the speed. The location of the resistors was behind the master cylinder on those cars. I don't find them there on my car, if in fact that is still the method of fan control. I've asked for help on this subject and other topics many times in the past and have received <u>zero</u> help or comments. So I'm asking again,<br> <br> 1) DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT?&nbsp; <br> 2) DOES ANYONE KNOW THE ANSWER TO MY DILEMMA?&nbsp; (Different question) <br> 3) CAN ANYONE ARTICULATE THAT ANSWER IN TEXT?<br> <br> If this problem is beyond the knowledge and abilities of the experts out there then I'll confine my questions in the future to simpler stuff. I thought this news group was an exchange of ideas and information. I have responded to many requests for help in the past where I had the same experience and found a solution and was rewarded with emails thanking me for the help and confirming my advice worked.&nbsp; I'll continue to do so since there are many people out there who expect the other members to help where they can.<br> <br> Thanks, Ken<br> </body> </html>
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Your car no longer uses dropping resistors for speed It uses a solid state regulator located on a heat sink next to the blower The regulator is a variable switched ground circuit and the trigger voltage comes from the PB control module. 3 wire connector behind booster , with the yellow being the trigger voltage . That should vary with the PB unit from 2-7 volts for regulator control.
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On Thu, 27 Nov 2003 17:41:30 GMT, "Kennith.Hensley"

I've answered this question for you twice already, don't you bother reading follow ups?
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Lettuce spray for whirled peas...

Reply to usenet[at]miknik[dot]co[dot]uk
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I think that miknik helped me locate the fan speed regulator and told me how to replace it. It is a very easy stepby step process and cost less than $250.00 to do your self. Neal
wrote:

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Actually the regulator that you are referring to is used in earlier 300's and 320's. I own two of them and have had to go through the process once before and am now going through it again.(see 300e blower motor)The regulator is attached to a heat sink and is located under the blower motor. You donot seem to be able to buy the regulator without the attached heat sink even though it is screwed onto it. There are two different part #'s depending on whether yours has an filter or not. There doesnot seemed to be a way of telling this until you remove the windshield wiper cover. You then have to remove the blower motor and take out the heat sink/regulator. At this point if you have the motor out you might as well replace the blower as it may have been the reason the regulator failed in the first place. The cost of the parts depending if filter version or not is $1000-1200 cnd. That is why I have requested if someone knows of another way around this. The job is not that difficult to do but requires bending over the car for a couple of hours. The symptoms your describe are exactly the ones I have had in both cars. Eventually if left long enough the fans just stops working
Hopefully this is of some assistance to you

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