Thanks, DougS
- posted
15 years ago
Thanks, DougS
I think you just answered your own question when you checked the pressure cable... and seems to be loose all the time and seems fully engaged as in full throttle. This will cause the transmission to stay full on until it senses change in throttle position.
Drop the pan, trace where that cable comes into the tranny... and you can see that mechanism... that cables comes into the transmission and pulls on a cam which pushes the 'green' piston in. See what is going on in this section.
If the piston is stuck , you should be able to pull it out and I believe it has a clip and bolt to hold that piston from coming all the way out. You can remove that plate and pull the piston out more.. and there is a spring underneath that piston... make sure the spring is good.
Any chance that 280,000 miles transmission is rebuilt?
After you fix or free the pressure cable, its correct adjustment is done:
Pry the cable's end socket off of its peg on the throttle linkage on the engine's top rear. Gently pull the cable and allow it to return to its natural, default position.
The cable is correctly adjusted IF it's socket can be reattached to its peg - WITHOUT pulling or pushing the cable. If not, adjust the cable's mounting nut to lengthen or shorten the cable so it's socket can be attached to its peg without pulling or pushing the cable. That's it.
A motor and transmission that's done 280K miles is no candidate to drive to red line - unless you're out to destroy it. Adjust the valves and add some injector cleaner to the fuel to smooth it out. And, if it shakes at idle after some higher speed driving, you should tighten (1/4 turn) the fuel rack's damper pin / bolt on the aft end of the injection pump. Its function is to dampen the fuel rack's vibration oscillations.
hanks for the response guys. I haven't checked the cable at the transmission yet, but I will when I jack it up to change out the brakes this week. Like I said, I narrowed it down pretty close doing all the standard (easy) stuff first. If at all possible, I'm gonna try and fix this without dropping the transmission pan, but I think that will be the final route. I don't know about the transmission being rebuilt or not, I've only had the car for a little over a year, and there were no service records. The transmission does shift very confidently though, and seems to be very strong. Overall, the car is in excellent condition, even the dash is still in good shape. I plan on trying to get rid of the shake first hopefully with a good thorough injector cleaning, and I will adjust the valves as soon as I get some wrenches to do that job. (Any chance someone wants to loan me a set?) Concerning the fuel rack damper, I don't think thats the cause, I've read about that pretty often, but I could be wrong.
Thanks again, DougS
At 280,000 miles, you really do need to change the timing chain and tensioner... and guides. Your timing gotta bo so far off by now.
Same for the timing chain on the fuel distributor... best left to qualified mechanic.
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