300E Bleeding the Fuel System

Hello all..... I juat ordered a new fuel accumulator for now, -78 dollars..... After installation of this part, do i have to reset or bleed the fuel system to prevent any air in the system? The car is still
broken, so I have been driving my fathers e320, since hes in FL for the next month. I have to get this car running because I am going to use it as a daily driver and I can't go out and buy another car or ask my parents for another car. I decided when I began driving that I would only own a mercedes....but thats another story....The car has been well maintained with oil, tranny fluid, and other things.... Can anyone just tell me if I have to bleed the fuel system.
- The car starts on a cold start and cuts out only after being drvin for about 5-10 minutes. Car will not restart for about 20 minutes and will run for no more than 5 minutes. I replaced the fuel filter, used chevron techron, changed the gas also. The pumps activate fine.... even after the car dies, if i spin the key the pumps still kick over. Is there any chance the pumps overheat? I doubt that. CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME, IM DO NOT WANT TO RELY ON MY PARENTS FOR EVERYTHING. IM A SERNIOR AT MONMOUTH UNIVERSITY IN WEST LONG BRANCH NJ. ALL OR ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED- Chuck Granger- Monmouth County NJ
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Chuck,
The symptoms seem to be HEAT related which leads one to suspect an electrical problem. This is a simple coil - distributor system so it should be easily to check. Before you do anything more to the fuel system check the coil and coil wire for cracks.
If, when it quits, you could check for spark would be the telling diagnosis - or proof that the ignition is OK.
Remember, this whole odyssey started with reversed polarity, not bad fuel.
Tom
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Hi Tom, I put a new ignition coil in the car back in October. The wires are new and the plugs are new. After New Years, when the car first died on the road, I sprayed a tiny bit of starting fluid in the air intake and the car started up for about 6 seconds then died. Now I am not an expert but would that make sense that it could be fuel related? Is it the ignition coil you are talking about for the coil?- Chuck
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when the car first died on the road, I sprayed a tiny bit of starting fluid in the air intake and the car started up for about 6 seconds then died. Now I am not an expert but would that make sense that it could be fuel related? I'd think so too.
Is it the ignition coil you are talking about for the coil?
YES, that's what I had in mind. But since you replaced the coil it should be excluded if the replacement was new and was OEM: Bosch / Beru.
There's not much left to consider: Fuel pressure regulator $240, Air Flow Sensor $734, Fuel Distributor Governor (E.H.A. Valve) $180, Idle Valve $237. Some heavy $$ involved so guessing is not an option.
IMHO the problem seems heat related - should any of these parts act on heat as part of their design scheme?
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Tom: You might try testing the CPS. The crank position sensor is a hall effect device which picks up pulses from 3 magnets that are mounted on the flywheel. A good digital VOM multi tester will give you a good idea of its condition but even when they test good, they do malfunction. The lead in is looped under a wire clamp. Remove the smallest round connector cap at the EZL (Ign Module) This module is mounted on top of the drivers side front wheel well cover. Keep Ign off key out, remove the cap from its socket and you should get around 750 to 780ohms resisitance. Then set the meter to the AC voltage scale and you should get very near .500 volts ac during normal cranking speed. If any of these readings are way off, spend the 117.00 and change it. If your car refuses to start, and you get NO SPARK, thats the first guy to try changing
-- dave_rose69
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