77 300d HELP PLEASE !

Well, my old 300D, 365K miles, needs the starter replaced, for some reason, that bolt was the tightest one I have ever tried to remove, especially since
it was in a very oily area on the car, I thought it would be easier. But nonetheless, after getting a hex socket, to remove the bolt it seems stripped. This is the lower bolt, there are also grips around the outside of these rounded bolts, they look a lot like the bolts that hold on the overhead cams, is there a tool that a mechanic can use to get a stripped one of these out, or does it have to be drilled etc. I would really appreciate some help, as the car has been sitting for a month while I sit here trying to figure out what to do with it.. Stumped, Jim
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Is this a 10mm (key size) internal hex bolt?

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It is a 9 mm internal hex nut, and yes I am using metric tools Jim
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Are you sure you are using metric tools?
cp
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Can you grind off the bolt's head?
A 28 year old engine that's done 365K miles may be (over) due for an overhaul or replacement. Perhaps this bolt is the catalyst to move to that decision or face the "scrap the car" decision.
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I'm surprised the cap screw stripped out so easily. On old ones you should clean out the female allen cavity then use a hammer to make sure the wrench is firmly seated as deep as possible. Then go for it again. If you gone past that point and can get a welding tip (wire feed) or welding rod (stick welder) to the cap screw then make sure the cavity is clean, tap the socket wrench as far in as possible and weld the tool to the cap screw. You may well ruin the tool but that can easily be replaced. If that doesn't work use a die grinder to cut off the head of the bolt, remove starter. Once that is completed you have the problem of removing the stud. A day or two of WD-40 may do the job loosening the threads enough to remove the bolt with a pair of vice grips. If that doesn't work heat the stud as much as possible without heating the surrounding case. This will naturally expand the stud but that's what you want at this point. After it has cooled somewhat spray WD-40 on the bolt to really cool it down. Now what you need to do is cool the stud as much as possible. If you have some R-134a refrigerant in a can attach the mechanism that punctures the top of the can, attach your refrigerant hose, aim it directly at the stud while trying to avoid cooling the surrounding case. Ice will form on the end of the stud indicating it is pretty cold at this point. Give it another try with the vice grips. If that doesn work you will need to grind the stud almost flat with the case, center punch it, drill it out. Beware, this is going to take a serious drill bit since cap screws are notoriously hard. Don't drill it out too much to begin with since you're going to want to get an easy-out in there to remove the balance of the stud. If that doesn't work (don't break the easy-out) drill the hole until only the threads remain. This requires getting the initial center punch hole dead center but, even if it's not don't worry. If the drill bit runs off a little it will ruin the threads on only a small part of the circumference of the bolt. A new cap screw should hold fine. Good luck!
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You , my friend are a lifesaver. I beleieve that you have given me the right ammunition to get that starter out. I will let you know how it goes. The car has 365K , but the motor has less than 100k on it. Thank you so much, Jim
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Bah. It's just gettin' good now. You'd scrap a car fora lousy bolt? :-)
(Grind two sides flat, use a crescent wrench)
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