Well, if it started last winter and won't start this winter
either you've lost compression badly in one
year (unlikely if you're a careful owner) or something else
First, plug in or get a block heater and you won't have
to worry about it ever again. If you're away from any
place to plug it in for more than 5 hours, take the car
for a 5 minute drive every 4 hours. End of problem.
If you havn't switched to full synthetic oil yet do
so immediatley. It is the single most effective thing
you can do to help winter starting. If you're
in a very cold place (like *here*
month and at that temp C and F are the same)
then you'd use 0W40 which Mobil makes; Petrocan
also makes a semi synthetic 0W30 that works as
well. Use 10W30 Mobil 1 if your colds aren't this
Adjust your valves. This is fairly critical.
Hows the chain stretch? You can read this off when doing
your valves. If it's off more than 5 degrees replace the
chain and your injection pump timing will be correct again.
I think repacing one bad glow plug is a bad idea. The other
ones are pretty weak now and here's the scoop on these: BOSCH
are OEM, BERU are just as good, Monarch are cheaper and dno't
last as long... BUT they burn much hotter and if I had this
problem I'd put a new set of Monarchs in every year. Don't
forget to ream the prechambers when yo uchange the glow plugs.
Make sure all the filters are clean.
If you do all this then yo ushoulc be able to start
it down to 0F, and while I assume you know the cold
weather starting procedure I'll sell if out anyway:
glow it util you hear the realy go *THUNK*
glow it again and again. After you've glower it 3 times
crank it until it starts or 90 seconds which ever comes
first. You only get one chance, just crank it and crank it.
The starter is utterly massive and while this would burn out
say, a Toyota starter I've cranked thes ehtings for 3 minutes
on 5 minutes rest then back on for 7 cycles and mine wasn't
even fazed (I had 1 working glow plug and started it in -40
with a boost this way 3 years ago)
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