'87 300D Turbo Cylinder Wall Deterioration Solution

I am currently having my head gasket replaced on my 1987 300D Turbo (124). The mechanic tells me that the wall where the gasket sits between cylinder 5 and 6 is only as thick as a dime where as the
others have normal thickness, which is probably why the engine ran hot. That isn't where the head gasket blew out actually though, even though the other walls in similar places look normal -- it blew out on another cylinder. Between 5 and 6 though he says there are like gouges out of the top portion of the cylinder wall, due to heat he suspects. He says he knows it was not caused during this latest time it overheated as it looks like the previous owner replaced the head gasket and redid the head and valves, but says he is concerned that area will blow through at some point and suggests replacing the engine.
Nonetheless, I'd like to get it running again with this engine because even though it has those gouges it was running great before it failed.
Is there any way to fill those gouges and/or increase that cylinder wall thickness to its appropriate thickness? Perhaps JB Weld??
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You can have that block resleeved so the specification will return to like new. Resleeved means that they will bore the cylinder out... then slip in a new cylinder... and then mill it to the factory spec with the current pistons and new rings. Never replace a piston unless there is something physically wrong with it.
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Any idea what would have caused those gouges/chunks in the top 1/4" of the cylinder? Is it possible there was detonation in that one cylinder, and if so, might than have been caused by excessively lean mixture caused by a clogged injector or faulty injection pump?
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Any idea what would have caused those gouges/chunks in the top 1/4" of the cylinder? Is it possible there was detonation in that one cylinder, and if so, might than have been caused by excessively lean mixture caused by a clogged injector or faulty injection pump?
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