I bought this car used with 80K miles now has over 100K.
I have replaced the following:
-Alternator (actually replaced by dealer at time of sale)
-Waterpump (note: difficult access to bolts, required bending a wrench
and several small ratchet swivels and extensions)
-Fuel 'Governor' (gas smell was due to slight leak (yipes) from this
small black box bolted to the back of the throttle body/intake)
Belt idler pulley assembly ($90 if that bearing goes bad!)
-I have a new secondary water pump I need to install.
The heater quit blowing hot air, but tapping on the solenoid (metal
cylinder near the battery same compartment)freed that up and now its
-Throttle micro switch (small plastic wheel breaks and causes it to
-I also have a new door check to install, one door wont open all the
way and I'll need another one eventuall, but the drivers side door
check completely broke, the old one came out easily and the new one
will go in easy)
-2 window switches
- A/C wont get very cold, but does get a little cooler when I add
- 4 new tires
Question: I turn the key on and the oil pressure guage goes all the
way to max. Never changes, even when car is running. Has someone
bypassed the oil pressure sending unit, I can believe this is normal?
And the worst part: Returning from a long trip (650 miles both way,
oil changed a couple weeks before trip) after exiting the highway, I
now hear a slight metallic tapping sound. It is not very loud. It does
speed up with the RPM's but doesnt necessarily speed up proportionally
if that makes sense. I know that normally this could be a crankshaft
bearing wearing out and disaster on its way, but could be it anything
less critical, such as the oil pump, or oil pump chain? It almost
sounds like a spark arcing to ground too, but I don't have any
Any advice appreciated, also, any leads on a 3.0 inline 6 cyclinder
engine block in florida.