Cold start problem on C200 1996

Hi ya all, I have a small problem with my silver beauty I can't resolve by myself. When cold after night or simply colder than 30" Celsius, engine refuses to idle. After ignitig it catches about 1200 rpm, then lowers to about 1000, then rapidly starts to idle roughly, and then dies. Second ignition usually is sucessful one and engine idles at about 1000, heating itself, alhough not very smooth, but at least it doesn't die. But it happened once or twice, that I had to ignite it three times, before it idled. Well, temperatures outside will definetly fall and problem will rather rise than diminish, so I'm trying do do something with that idling. So there's a question - since it may be oxygen sensor, exactly, heating of it - how to check it? How to determine is sensor well heated?? I have WIS/ASRA 2006, but there's nothing about sensor heating - or I can't locate the info... Another idea is PMS - original one died when I trided to ignite my car by puling it (acccu was completely flat at that moment) and was replaced with one form C180. Recently I tried to do same trick, meaning start the engine by pulling the car. After that for a moment engine was not willing to start and didn't idle at all. Erasing memory - by disconnecting accu - mend the problem, but ever after that moment it didn't worked so somooth as before. Well, maybe PMS gradually gives up?? What do you all think of it? Anyone encountered similar problems?? Cheers, Andrzej

Reply to
Andrzej
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Did you get any check engine light? Did you pull any diagnostic codes? I am thinking AFM Air Flow Meter.

Reply to
Tiger

How does it perform when warm?

The PMS tries to learn after having been reset. Obviously the engine does not react as it is supposed to according to the input it gets from the various sensors.

Possible faults could be (in order of probability):

- Manifold vacuum leak

- Air Mass Sensor

- Coolant temperature sensor

- Intake air temperature sensor

- Oxygen sensor

- Fuel pressure

- Ignition

High idle before stalling could indicate too lean mixture (vacuum leak could be a very likely cause).

Oxygen sensor does not provide output until warm. Meanwhile, the system will work in open loop mode (fixed fuel mass according to air mass and temperature sensors). The heating of the oxygen sensor only heats it up quicker, so the operating time in open loop mode is minimized. Poor heating should not cause your symptoms, but merely delay the closed loop mode. And a failing oxygen sensor would most probably also just cause continuous open loop mode, in which it should still start OK.

/Jens

Reply to
Jens

Reply to
Wan-ning Tan

Uzytkownik "Jens" napisal w wiadomosci news: snipped-for-privacy@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Nothing bad happening, when warm (meaning after it exceeds 80'Celsius) - idles perfectly at 650-700 rpm, no problems with start.

Well, I'm having my car checked today by my mechanician, so later in the evening will provide more info. Jens, thanks a lot :)

Reply to
Andrzej

U¿ytkownik "Tiger" napisa³ w wiadomo¶ci news:g5CNg.8$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe11.lga...

Hmm, the problem is, that engine light is lit all the time - i don't know yet what the problem is exactly, but trying to mend it. Dude, who sold me the car simply pulled out the bulb, so I didn't saw it at the begining. When I discovered that and fit the bulb, it started to lit, and lits all the time. My mechanician will try to fix it today....

Reply to
Andrzej

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