Diagnosing C/C needs

These are the codes that Shawn provided.
Data -- Code 100 -- 01 - in car temperature sensor 76 -- 02 - outside temp sensor 87 -- 03 - heater core temp sensor left
87 -- 04 - heater core temp sensor right 85 -- 05 - evaporator temp sensor 112 -- 06 - ECT sensor (DFI/IFI) 00 -- 07 - refrigerant pressure (displayed in bar) 84 -- 08 - refrigerant emp sensor (displayed in degrees F) 27 -- 09 - not used 00 -- 10 - blower control voltage (08 to 60 - corresponding to 0.8V to 6.0V) 4.6 -- 11 - emissions sensor (in volts)
3.2 -- 12 - sun sensor (in volts) (sun) 4.6 (shade) 3.2 -- 20 - control current for aux fan (in milli-amps) 32 -- 21 - engine speed (00-99 - x100 = rpm) 00 -- 22 - vehicle speed km/h 32 -- 23 - voltage at terminal 58 (indicating % of battery voltage - ie. 99 = 99%)
11.6 -- 24 - actual battery voltage (engine off) 13.3 (idle)
164 -- 40 - software status 91 -- 41 - hardware status
(Codes not in Shawn's list) 72 -- 42 - function unknown 16 -- 43 - function unknown
Your thoughts, anyone?
TIA,
Collin KC8TKA
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So, if you knew one or more of these CC code readings, what would or could YOU do?
Its all just meaningless data without the overall plan or the code specifications.
What's the specific problem?
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No cold air.
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No cold air.
Have you felt the condenser coils to see if they're hot i.e. that the compressor is running and that heat is being shed?
Have you felt the coolant lines at both heater control valves to see if they're hot - going into the heater?
These simple checks will tell you if the problem is not enough cool or too much heat.
Then its time to have the professionals fix the cooling or you fix the heater control valves or - last resort - the dealer fix the climate control's electronics.
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Thanks. I'm not much of a car guy. Software is my area. I'm a techno-geek in the IBM/Lotus arena. (Though I am doing software for the R&D of an auto mfg in Ohio.)
Collin
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IMHO the answer is in the codes. Refrigerant pressure - zero Refrigerant temperature - 84F Evaporator temp sensor - 85F
Your A/C coolant (freon or whatever it's using) is gone. There must be a small leak or something but you have no cold air because there is no refrigerant. (zero pressure in the line and a line temperature higher than the ambient of 76 F probably due to it being next to a warm engine)
Skip the dealer, find an A/C specialist - get him to find & fix the leak then re-fill with R-whatever they are using now, and you're off to the races.
Cheesehead wrote:

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Makes sense. The pipes have no temp change @ all. Time to let a pro do what a pro does.
Thanks,
Collin
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