Diesel purchase question

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I'm looking for a nice older MB TD. I'm seeing 5 cyl & 6 cyl, and hearing only rumors of what is best. What are the recommendations of such knowledgeable folks as you?

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As new as you can afford... full service record is best... bring a buddy who knows alot about MB or take it to a MB tech to have it inspected...
And test drive it well... so you get an idea what is normal and what is not.
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On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 16:31:42 -0500, "L A Davenport"

head, you can't kill them. The later 6 cyl's (3.0 L) had aluminum heads, that could warp or crack if overheated. The 3.5L 6's had trouble with the cylinders...not sure of it is the correct term, warping, changing from round to oval shape.
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I've owned a 77 240D, 80 300SD, 84 300SD and (currently) an 87 300TD, so I've had experience with 4, 5 and 6-cylinder diesels. All are excellent, but I feel the best engine overall is the 6-cylinder in the 86 and 87 models. It is the smoothest, most powerful and gets fuel economy comparable or better than the older diesels. Yes, if overheated the head can warp. Mine has over 220K and I've never had the head replaced. I had a new radiator installed two years ago. If you're careful and keep the cooling system in good condition head warpage should not be a major issue.
I would definitely stay away from the 3.5 liter 6-cylinder diesel found in the early 90's cars. They had a disasterous record.
wrote:

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wrote:

6, which gets 22city/25 highway, compared to (told from owners) the same generation 300SD's with the inline 5 with gets 28city/32 highway. They get almost 600 miles to a tank where i am on empty just over 400 and i have a bigger tank.

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Those mileage claims for the 5 cylinder are bogus, unless the gallons are imperial gallons! 24 mpg in commute driving is about the real number.
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On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 21:38:44 GMT, "T.G. Lambach"

highway (for a 300SD w126). Any idea why they stopped production of the w126 diesel after 87 until the 350SD and SDL came out? If the body style was still popular and diesels were still being used in other models and again in these, why the gap?
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wrote:

The gap was likely the falloff in sales of diesels in general because of the decline in fuel prices in the late 80's, not any inherent flaw in the diesel engine themselves. Among the most talked-about and highly sought after diesels are the 86/87 300SDL and the 87 300 TD-T. Low mileage specimens in excellent condition are readily sold on the used market.
Regarding fuel economy, I maintained my diesels in excellent condition, used primarily Mobil 1 oil changed regularly, Red Line Diesel Fuel Catalyst and got regular valve adjustments. My 80 and 84 300SD's got about 25/25 in mixed driving and 27/28 MPG highway. The 87 300TD gets 26/27 MPG in mixed driving and 28/30 highway. As I said, I liked all the diesels but given the choice would pick the 87 6-cylinder as the best all-around engine. (Just make sure the trap oxidizer was replaced under the factory recall - and you get a new exhaust system in the process!)
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My newly purchased UK spec '95 250D (non turbo) has just covered it's first 300 miles in my hands on 34.58 litres of Diesel....
38MPG (imperial) or thereabouts????
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snipped-for-privacy@NoHamOrSpamcomcast.net says...

Such is my experience.
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wrote:

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The 3.8 litre gallon or the 4.5 litre gallon?
DAS
--
For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling
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On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 12:25:21 +0100, "Dori A Schmetterling"

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wrote:

3.8L
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6 cylinders... not 5.
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The five cylinder diesel is really the old 4 cylinder 240D with an additional cylinder grafted on. That was done in the mid 70s to achieve about 77 HP. In 1978 the internals were strengthened and a turbocharger added for the first 300SD Turbodiesel (110 - 120 HP). The engine's technology is old and quite simple, a great engine for a DIY owner.
The engine's maintenance is oil & filter change at 5K miles, valve adjustment at 15K miles and filters at 30K miles. The engine will be good for 250K to 300K miles if it is so maintained. These old fives are all cast iron and very durable machines. Their other advantage is that lots of them were sold so finding a used engine isn't difficult.
The newer six is a more powerful engine (148 HP) that's also inherently smoother, being a six rather than a five. It's aluminum head is not as durable, its cooling system must be well maintained to avoid overheating that causes cylinder head and or cylinderhead gasket problems.
The internal condition of any diesel will be revealed by a compression test and I suggest you have one done before, not after, buying one. Its $$ well spent to know that you have a good car or to avoid an expensive lesson later on.
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Is anyone here running their diesels on biodiesel?
Thanks

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My girlfriend has been running her 1984 300d on Biodiesel for six months. I just picked up a '79 300sd that I will also be running on B100.
I changed the fuel filters after the first tank, and that is about all I had to do for the change to B100. Smells better, runs smoother, smokes almost not at all. I recommend it!
Plus it keeps the money you spend on fuel, much closer to home, which I really like.
Bernard
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On 2004-08-31 21:57:00 -0700, "Bernard Farquart"

Actually this is a bit of specious argument. Go look at the fertilizer used to grow the crops for your biodiesel and you will see ammonium nitrate fertilizers derived from imported oil...
Marty
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said:

Are you saying that the same amount of money goes overseas to buy part of the fertilizer?
Or is your argument a bit disingenuous?
I believe self reliance in energy is a vital component of national security that is being completely ignored by the vested interests in power. I feel the need to act as an individual in a way to bring change in our energy policy (at least my own personal policy) I am willing to pay more, for fuel that is not drilled and shipped from places full of those who would do us harm. If there is some amount of oil in the fertilizer that is used to grow the soy, that is used to make the Biodiesel, then it is not a perfect answer, but I think it is *better* by large magnitudes.
Bernard
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