Is there an easy way to determine if the problem is electrical (switch) or if it is a bad motor?
Also, is there a trick to get inside door panel off to get to the window motor and assembly?
Graymatter
Is there an easy way to determine if the problem is electrical (switch) or if it is a bad motor?
Also, is there a trick to get inside door panel off to get to the window motor and assembly?
Graymatter
If it's an older ML, try wiggling the switch... or pushing it towards the left or right as you pull it up, to get the window closed...
I got similar car... my switch simply went bad... it is a high wear and tear item. I'd change the switch before I do anything else... Check your fuse while you are at it too.
I checked my switch with the key on and I could hear a clicking in side the door panel - both up and down. I am assuming this means the switch is good and delivering power to the motor, but nothing happens. The fuse also must be good. I think I need to break into the door panel to see if the assembly is locked up or if the motor is shot.
I don't see any screws or anything that holds the door panel on. Does anyone know how to remove the drivers side door panel?
Graymatter
There are these little plastic clips that hold them on. Stick a putty knife in there and pry gently, they should pop off without too much trouble. There are also likely screws going through the armrest and perhaps near where the door release lever is. Best thing to do is tread gently. ;) On my '79 TD the last point of contention in getting my front door panel off was the basket on the door connected to the door frame in a fairly odd way, but a bit of gentle motion and deduction solved that problem.
good luck,
-tom!
I had this problem on both my rear windows ('87 w124). Both were fixed by my mechanic. The left one had a pinched wire, the right one - that clicked like yours - was fixed by disassembling the motor and cleaning the collectors.
Ximinez
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