So the shop replaced the fuel distributor after all (sorry Tiger, it
actually sorta slipped my mind, plus I got a rebuilt for really cheap), and
my shaking at idle went away (along with shaking at full throttle at high
rpm). However, now I noticed that I have to hold the key longer than before
to get the car started. What could they have messed up during the swapping
of the fuel distributors that would cause the car to need more cranking to
get going? BTW, my little friend the black puff of smoke when the engine
starts is still around. Oh well, at least the car runs smooth.
Yup, cold or hot, it don't matter. It doesn't take long to start really,
just longer. How long should I have to hold the ignition on a 380 to get the
car started? Perhaps the badness of the old fuel distributor got me used to
fast starting? Also, would lean mixture mean more hp like it does for
two-stroke remote control car engines?
No hesitations at all, and the wamr up is fine. If I wanted to I could
convince myself that the car runs a little (couple degrees C) warmer than
before though. So, with the ideal 380, should I just have to touch the crank
and the engine starts, or is it supposed to take a second or 2?
2 seconds. Hmm, then I may be ok. Is it possible since the old one was
running rich, that it was starting faster than normal (it was really I would
just hit the start, and it would start. maybe 1/4 to 1/2 second of
cranking)? Also, how does one go about adjusting the air/fuel mixture on the
CIS-E injection. From watching the guy do it, it involved a flathead
screwdriver and a voltmeter, but I don't know what he was doing. Could you
tell me how?
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