hard starting

So the shop replaced the fuel distributor after all (sorry Tiger, it actually sorta slipped my mind, plus I got a rebuilt for really cheap), and my shaking at idle went away (along with shaking at full throttle at high
rpm). However, now I noticed that I have to hold the key longer than before to get the car started. What could they have messed up during the swapping of the fuel distributors that would cause the car to need more cranking to get going? BTW, my little friend the black puff of smoke when the engine starts is still around. Oh well, at least the car runs smooth. Richard
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Taking longer to start cold and hot? I would say the fuel mixture is too lean.
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Yup, cold or hot, it don't matter. It doesn't take long to start really, just longer. How long should I have to hold the ignition on a 380 to get the car started? Perhaps the badness of the old fuel distributor got me used to fast starting? Also, would lean mixture mean more hp like it does for two-stroke remote control car engines? Richard

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Too lean means too hard to ignite. Takes longer to start. How is the warm up? Car hesitations?
Too leans is not more power... it is less power, less torque.
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No hesitations at all, and the wamr up is fine. If I wanted to I could convince myself that the car runs a little (couple degrees C) warmer than before though. So, with the ideal 380, should I just have to touch the crank and the engine starts, or is it supposed to take a second or 2? Thanks, Richard

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2 seconds to start... yep... too lean. very simple adjustment.
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2 seconds. Hmm, then I may be ok. Is it possible since the old one was running rich, that it was starting faster than normal (it was really I would just hit the start, and it would start. maybe 1/4 to 1/2 second of cranking)? Also, how does one go about adjusting the air/fuel mixture on the CIS-E injection. From watching the guy do it, it involved a flathead screwdriver and a voltmeter, but I don't know what he was doing. Could you tell me how? Thanks, Richard

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