HELP: 280TE won't start. Push start possible?

Perhaps some one can help.
The starter in my 1985 W123 finally took a dump 180 miles from home. I just need to get the car started, so I can drive the car back to familiar help. When I turn the key, there's
plenty of power, but the starter soleniod doesn't click, and there's zero action from the starter. I've tried jiggling and shifting the gear selector, so I don't think it's the neutral safety switch. I've given the starter a few good whacks, but because the solenoid doen't click, so I don't think the ring gear is jammed. Is there another relay/fuse that I need to check? Is there anyway to push start this car? (automatic). Anyone know a good independant MB mechanic in the Worcester/Charlton MA area?
TIA
Michael Trei 1985 280TE 1969 300SEL 6.3
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Michael, the car will theoretically push start. Push the car to 30 MPH in neutral then engage "S" position. Have the key on.
I thin the neutral switch grounds a relay. The relays are atop the driver side shock tower. Try switch around the relays there (they are all the same). Also, you may be able to apply voltage to a terminal there (it will be by jumping terminal 30 (battery) and terminal 87 (output) on the relay. Not much chance of bothering anything if you are careful. Next time break down closer and I will help you go get it. Benefits of MBCA membership<g>!
Bill Ditmire Ditmire Motorworks,Inc. 425 White Horse Pike Absecon,NJ 08201 http://www.ditmire.com 609-641-3392
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With a 6.9 in his drive, can't he "pull start" the car in a similar manner, carefully? ;)
I'm still having problems with my neutral safety switch, and one day the only way I could get it was to put the shifter clear down to "N" instead of park. If I did indeed find it the last time I was under the car, it's extremely loose... and all I did was move it a bit, so I'm still having to mess with the shifter now and there.
One question: MBCA?
Mike

side
Also,
jumping
chance of

MBCA
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If it starts in N and not in P . it can be the shifter rod bushings are worn [ common]. When going into P , you can not get the rod to push all the way cuz of the Gate trim stop, whereas in N , there is no definate stops.. Othewise , it is the switch -- which has oblonged mounting holes for adjustment. The conntacts for P and N are the same inthe switch , but the operating cams are not. See if back lamps come on when shifter is exactly in R. This will tell of adjustment correctness. These switches are susceptical to moisture/water and are commonly changed before 100K...
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On 30 Nov 2003 14:00:11 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Bill Ditmire) wrote:
Bill;
Thanks for your always generous advice. As it turned out, the problem was indeed a jammed starter, and a another well positioned thwack while the power to the starter was engaged allowed it to turn and start the engine. I then drove to NYC without turning the car off. A friendly and Mercedes knowledgable good samaritan turned up to help, and he felt that this type of problem typically occurs when the bushings/bearings inside the starter wear allowing the gear to twist slightly off axis. I guess I need to put in another new or rebuilt starter, even though the one in the car was just 'rebuilt', presumably without replacment of the problematic bushings.
I'm sure you don't remember, but I did buy a car from you about six years ago, a very cheap 1979 300CD from your 'beater' lot down the road. Despite the rust, that car did make it coast to coast four times before I eventually sold it.
Michael Trei 1985 280TE 1969 300SEL 6.3

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