ok but wouldnt that effect both front and rear brake im only have problem with
the rear wheel sticking could there still be air in the line. thank you for
youradvice it help me make up my mind im gone to replace it next
are the same age and likely to go at the same time, thus he didn't like to do
unless it was due to some accident rather than normal wear. He said that
when just one is replaced that the other one with then blow out. So next week
having the other one done...or at least checked for its condition. Is that the
deal with the caliper thing? e.g., replace both back ones at the same time?
You don't normally need to do that, but if the car has a long service
life behind it, it's not a bad idea to do them both.
PS The fixing one side, makes the other side blow a week later theory is crap.
That is why you have a dual master cylinder: front and rear are independant of
Look at your reservoir. You will see 2 chambers. The large chamber is for the
front brakes, they
have larger calipers. The small chamber is the rear brakes. It is usually at the
booster end of the
master. The master has two plungers in it, not one for both. Here is a break
down pic of a tandem
master cylinder: [it is a VW but it is same idea]
When you say that the brakes "stick", are you saying that the calipers grip
the rotors and don't release when you take you foot off the brake? Have you
had the calipers checked? They are pretty old at this date. If the brake
fluid is correct, and the master cylinder is working, physically examining
the calipers would be a good idea. Given the expansion flexibility of rubber
brake lines, braided stainless over teflon gives a much better feel when
braking, as do Zimmerman cross-drilled rotors (front) with Rotex Gold brake
pads (coximport.com) which don't make the front wheels black at all! P.
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