How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D?

I have an old thread called Oil Spots on an Air Filter that is in the process of being deleted " Error! newsgroup server responded: Bad article
number," so I'll take over here.
I have used the adjustment screw on the rear of the IP to reduce the exhaust smoke from the 240D. The reduction was considerable but it is still smoky. There is no blue color - it's now grey. The question is just how clear should the smoke be? Subjective question I know but efforts will be appreciated.
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Very clear... How is your compression?
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Tiger wrote:

I haven't measured it yet.
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Once my 300D turbodiesel is warmed up the exhaust is perfectly clear. If I am following my car and the driver floors it there is a light hint of smoke at low speeds, but over 15 or 20 the car is moving along enough that you can't even detect it. And it is set pretty rich too. You really shouldn't be able to detect any smoke either while it is warm and idling or while driving.
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The engine in my 1982 300 TDT was remanufactured last summer. I had the shop put in new cylinder sleeves and use standard pistons, so my compression is like new. I do not see any visible exhaust except on very cold mornings for just a few moments as the engine is warming up.
I agree with Tiger. If you see a lot of smoke the compression of the engine may be suspect.
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heav wrote:

My car has only 90,300 miles on it and the oil has been changed very regularly. I think the MBZs of that era should drive fiurther than that before getting new sleeves. Will run it hot for a while and then check again.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks WE.
My engine was not hot when I last checked the exhaust. I'll take a run soon and will then check the exhaust color.
Have a great week :-)
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RF wrote:

I had my run and got the engine normal operating temperature but there was no great change in the smoke condition.
Now I am thinking of 3 tasks that could help it.
1    Do the purge on the IP and injectors. DieselGiant has an article on this and it seems like they used a soft drink plastic bottle to hold the purging fluid, with two holes in the cap, two short hoses, one to the IP inline filter and the other to the top of the spin filter. The IP sucks the fluid out, some of which burns as the engine runs and the rest returns to the bottle. http://dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm This is for an OM617 but the pictures look like my 616.
2    Adjust the valves. This looks straightforward.
3    Adjust the timing chain. Info on this one seems to be lacking. The MBZ manual, and DieselGiant describe the replacement of the chain but I can't find any instructions for adjusting the tension. Is it simply a matter of adjusting the tension bolt until the noise is a minimum or is there another criterion?
TIA
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I would definitely suggest #1. The purge gave my car a lot of power. If it is dirty in there all sorts of bad stuff can go on. Use two cans of the lubromoly when you do it. I heard a few months ago that the lubromoly was available at advane so I checked, btu they didn't have any at my local advance. They did swear by seafoam though. The manager there has an old diesel tuck and he said it really improves the performance when he puts it in. I bought two cans but haven't done it yet. It doesn't say on teh can that you can run it through the engine straight like the lubromoly, but then again I don't think it says that on the lubromoly either. Just food for thought.
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