Kick down on a 1998 250Td

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I have recently got a 250td 124 with 170,000 miles I have noticed it won't kick down to 2nd, kicks down to 1st at slow speeds and when in 4th kicks down to 3rd as you would expect but will not change down to 2nd at any time! it will change if you use the selector.
Changes thru all gears smoothly with little flairing, in general drives well. Oil level normal, fluid is clean and doesnt smell burnt
any one with any thoughts of what could be causing it?
Des
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I suggest you change your fluids before you do anything else... Simply drain the fluid from the pan drain bolt... and refill... then drive for 50 miles... and then repeat the procedure again.
The third and last one... drop the pan and change the filter. I also suggest you use Valvoline Dextron ATF... I have great experience with this fluid on MB... very smooth action. You can also try a Valvoline Maxlife with sealer (1 quart only) for your last fluiid change... they claim to "replenish" the seal so it doesn't leak... to fix your flaring... If it doesn't fix your flaring, then no harm done... you know when it gets worse, you will have to do a tranny rebuild.
I think your valve body is sticky or leaking that the tranny act funky... possibly due to that the tranny fluid may be dirty or has not been changed for a long time.
My car once started to act very bad... rough shifting... because I didn't change the fluid for 4 years... and after I did the flush, it was kitten purring.
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miles... and then repeat the procedure again.
Hey Tiger, this repeat procedure isn't necessary if you drain out the torque convertor, right? Thanks, Richard
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It is still necessary to get it all out... you see.. when you drain the ATF from pan... you got one third... the torque converter got the other 1/3... and all the oil in the clutch packs... basically all above the valvebody is still there...
The method I described is pretty thorough... your way is fine too... probably a bite more of old stuff still there than the above method I described....
Beside, you used the synthetic stuff... which is expensive stuff... I wouldn't do it the way I said above... just too much waste.
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Can the synthetic Mobil 1 ATF be mixed with non-synthetic ATF? If what you say is true, I have 2/3 Mobil 1 ATF and 1/3 non-synthetic ATF (although I remember it took the full capacity of ATF to fill it back up, so maybe the fact that I was on ramps got a bit more out?). Richard

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Hi... maybe it is the ramp thing that got majority of it out... synthetic and regular is compatible with each other... The full capacity of draining is specified as the folliowing... filter only... with torque converter.. but when you do overhaul... it takes more. I don't know what is the full capacity of tranny on our car.
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According to my service manual, the full capacity of a 380 (with tranny 722.3) is 8.6 liters and the oil change is 7.7 liters. Looking at my left over bottle (I bought 9, just in case), it looks like I used 8.333 liters. I wonder if I'd get more oil out if I did oil changes with ramps too... Richard

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