MAF 98 ML320

Hi,
Error code advises that the MAF is no good. Dealer cost $400 plus 1 Hr install. Bosh replacements on eBay are $230. Is Bosch a good replacement,
is this easy to install???
I have testing tools, etc.. just screwdrivers, etc!
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Vinnie
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Easily installed, I'd buy on line: www.autohausaz.com or www.thebenzbin.com etc.
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$200 at autohausaz... Bosch is original equipment. However, before you replace it... I would suggest you clean the inside of MAS with CRC MAS cleaner available at Pep Boys... and see if it makes a difference. Alot of time, it needs to be cleaned.
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Thanks Tiger... ordered, along with a new air filter... 5 minutes, done...!
Thank you!
Tiger wrote:

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I suggest cleaning the MAF sensor wire with electronic contact cleaner first (I use CRC brand on a q-tip at every "B" service interval). The only part I have had trouble with are the anti-tamper torx screws that hold the sensor in the housing. You can either purchase the bits or remove them carefully with small vice-grips and replace them with a reasonable screw.
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Thank you!!
Where can I find inx on how to get to it...????
Thanks again!
me wrote:

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I do not own an ML. I do own and E430 and an SLK320.
The SLK320's MAF Sensor is at the center rear of the engine under the air cleaner on top/behind the intake manifold.
The E430's MAF is in the cold air manifold intake on the left front of the engine. I suspect this is where yours is located.
It is a cylindrical plastic piece with a plastic screen on one end. It will be located in line with the cold air intake into the engine somewhere. It has an electrical connector plugged into it.
A cursory check on google reveals: (you will need to register to view the .pdf files) http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1273980-mass-air-flow-maf-sensor-replacement.html
A good explanation of cleaning the MAF on a CLK430
http://www.panchogun.com/FVWebPhotos/FV-Cars-CLK-Repair-AIR-MAF-5x100.jpg
Wolfgang's page seems very good for general information about the ML http://www.whnet.com/4x4/
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It is not hard to find it... somewhere between the air filter box and the engine duct... You have to take it off the ducts from both side to clean it.
Be very careful to clean with q-tip... wire is very thin and fragile and will break easily. CRC is really powerful cleaner.
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Found it.. plain as day once you know what you are looking for! Thank you! Is it my imagination or is this no more than a five minute job- remove the old, put in the new... seems too easy....
98ML has 115000 miles on it, never replaced, so I will get a new one from autohaus...
Dealer wanted $400 plus one hour labor.. 'testing'....
What else do they do in that 'hour'????
can't be this simple, can it???
Tiger wrote:

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Until you try to take off the torx screws =:^o

There have been a lot of discussions on replacement cost and what brand to buy. Search the web, highest cost does not necessarily mean better quality.

C'mon they can hardly afford gas for the ski boat.

Yes it can.
I clean mine when I detect any hesitation. I take it apart, spray CRC on a q-tip an lightly rub the wire, then reinstall. Takes about 20 minutes in the SLK, and about 10 on the E430. Usually a good idea to blow out the air filter(s) with compressed air, or replace it at the same time.
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Ah, those screws! Air filter is right there, correct?
What about an O2 sensor, easy to do?? Dealer suggested this as well.. what a laundry list...I'd like to do as much as I can.. simple stuff...
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    Absolutely, make sure you let the exhaust heat up first.... remember it's probably rusted in there pretty well and heat helps a lot! I bought a cheap Bosch Mustang O2 sensor which was identical to my 300E. Check for alternatives to your MB O2 sensor... you may have to do a little splicing of wires ... no big deal though and it can save you $100.
Jack up the side of the car to get easy access to it. You'll probably find it right after the catalytic converter... looks like a spark plug
cheers, guenter

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I would not change the O2 sensors for the sake of changing them. Only if it was throwing codes (I think PO150 &/ PO155). I believe there are four O2 sensors on your exhaust system, two in front of the cats and two after.
My guess is that there might be a chrysler O2 sensor that would be an exact match :)
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I agree... don't change them unless you know they are bad. With an OBD2 scanner, you can see the values of the O2 sensors putting out... the first one would move like crazy... with quick varying readings at idle or even accelerating at idle.
The second O2 sensor would barely budge... change is real slow... you have to kinda hold the RPM for a while to see it change... if this is so, it is good..
When O2 sensor goes bad, you will get 0 reading... when that do happen, you have to change them in a pair... not one at a time.
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