My 420 SEL Failed VA Emissions - Help Please

Worn spark plugs, old ignition wires (cause weak spark) can cause high HC reading. Also retarded ignition timing.

When was it last tuned up?

How about a catalytic converter that is shot, or excessive oil slipping past the rings/valve guides?

That's also a possibility, but no oil consumption was mentioned.

Where in Virginia are you having the car inspected that they're doing tailpipe tests? I've lived in Norfolk for eight years, and have never had to have any of my bikes or cars emissions-tested as part of a state inspection (model years vary from 1972 to 2000).

Since your car has probably been flagged as an "inspection failure", you'll have to get the emissions back within acceptable limits before you can get an inspection sticker this year, but I would suggest that for future inspections, you take a road trip to a part of the state that doesn't do tailpipe tests.

Uh, Normally it doesn't work that way. If you live in the more populace area, you need to have you vehicle tested. Some people will dodge this by having the car registered at a more rural address...

I have been told that in the event the HC emissions are coming from oil leaking in the cylinders, that Mobil 1 will pass the emissions test for you. This is strictly hearsay, so don't blame me if it doesn't help...

Marty

PS I agree with TG that a tune up is the proper place to start.

Thanks for the reply. That's exactly what the inspection tech said. I replaced the plugs, wires, cap, & rotor exactly 5 years ago (about

I found out the emissions testingin Virginia isn't based on population (or else the Norfolk/Virginia Beach area would have it for certain). Rather, it's just five counties and five cities in Northern Virginia that have the emissions testing. It's not part of the regular state inspection, and it's tied into the DMV database so that you can't register the car until the emissions test has been passed.

If your vehicle fails the initial test and the re-test, you can get a waiver, but only if you can show you've spent at least $620 trying to fix the problem. At least you'll only have to deal with it until the car is 25 years old.

So, it looks like the best thing would be a full tune-up prior to the re-test. Make sure the engine is up to full operating temperature before you have the test done. Also, change the oil immediately before the test to minimize the amount of unburned hydrocarbons present in any oil that seeps past the rings into the exhaust.

Best of luck,

I would just change the plugs and O2 sensor... cap and rotor are good forever... well pretty much that long.