I agree. Original Glasomax (sic?) is still the best paint I've ever seen.
You would not believe the paint jobs I was able to produce in Germany with
this paint in the early '60s. Don't know if those enamels are even available
in Germany anymore.
In any event here's a trick we used in the fiberglass industry to put a
finish polish on molds and I know it works on cars because I've done it.
After doing all of the rubbing, polishing, etc., we did a finish polish with
baking soda mixed with plain ole water into a paste and used to remove any
remaining polishing scratches. There are similar compounds used by really
good paint/body shops that can probably do a similar job. In any event I
remember one guy in our shop sliding a dry polishing rag from one end to the
other of a fairly long "plug" used to make female fiberglass molds. It slid
up hill from the stern to the bow with a flick of the hand. Have not seen
anything as shiny since with the possible exception of that $500k+ MB
McLaren at our local MB dealer last week.
I'm too old to do any serious polishing anymore but if I really wanted to
have a car polished out right I'd take it to a reputable auto body shop and
ask them if they have someone who might be interested in polishing out my
car. You might be surprised what they can do in a relatively short time. And
I wouldn't worry about going through the paint if it hasn't been polished
much in the past. The biggest mistake people usually make is too much
polishing and not enough waxing. Polishing removes paint, waxing protects
That would be my choice since a good rub out takes a lot of work and is
normally a 3 or 4 step process. I'd do the wax job myself since that doesn't
require nearly as much manual labor as the rub out, and you won't run into
the possibility of rubbing through the paint on the convex surfaces such a
protruding corners, etc. Body shop personnel who have done this for a while
have the tricks down pretty good and avoid rubbing through paint. Can you
imagine listening to a painter who has just rolled a new paint job out of
the booth and had an underling rub through in a single spot. It can take
many hours of repeat labor just to clean up such a spot. They just don't do
it or they're looking for another job real quick.
Glasurit is the paint. I don't think it's the same stuff as it used to
be since IIRC it is now water based and used to be alcohol based. Also,
it is sadly still produced using a method that is illegal in the US, so
you cannot have your car repainted in the US using it. At the same
time, I've seen American paint jobs that are amazing, so I think it
coms down to just using a good shop.
The timing chain can be checked for wear at the next valve adjustment.
The engine is turned by hand until a mark on the cam aligns with a fixed
reference mark - that sets the cam to 00 degrees. Then the crankshaft's
angle (scale on the balancer down at the pulleys) is read. The chain is
worn and ought to be replaced if the crankshaft angle exceeds 5 degrees.
Have it checked so you'll know it OK, or not.
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