proud new owner, I think?

Wow... a thousand buck. That is a bargain for rust free car. I would let a MB diesel mechanic check it out before your ride back to Chicago. I'd buy some fuel filters, jumper cable, essential tools to carry with me on the road. AAA would be great too... don't forget that MB road service is free for minor things... but repair on the road cost money.

For a $1000 you can't lose. Just remember to change and check all fluids (if not already done so) before driving that far

cp

You may find that having it shipped to you is cheaper (and safer) than you traveling to Sacramento and driving it back to Chicago. About $1,000

+/-.

You know squat about this car and it's a long drive. One break down and the $1,000 truck shipping looks pretty good.

Trucking is by vehicle size and whether the car will be inside or outside. Prices can be a bit, not a lot, "flexible" so don't take the first number thrown out.

Good point...but at about 1000.00 shipping which is what I paid for the car, vs. 125.00 for the one way ticket to Sacramento plus travel expenses. I'm thinking if a mechanic gives the O.K. it may be worth the risk. I would love to know if anyone knows a good independent MB mechanic around Sacramento, Or should I just have a dealer look it over? If someone in the know looks at it and tells me its risky I can still have it shipped,and fly back.

Congratulations! Relax and enjoy the car. As somebody else said, for a thousand bucks, you can't go wrong.

Why don't people fix stuff like that when it breaks? I've never understood why some owners surrender to entropy and let malfunctions accumulate on their cars like that.

I'd seriously recommend that if you do decide to drive the car home rather than having it shipped, you bite the bullet and have the air conditioning fixed first -- especially at this time of the year. Even if it weren't summertime, A/C would keep the noise level down inside the car, reducing fatigue, and prevent your being beaten half to death by the wind. W123 aerodynamics are such that the cars aren't terribly comfortable with the windows open at freeway speeds.

This would be a logical opportunity to have the air conditioning system converted to R134A refrigerant.

I'd also check the cruise control and fix it if necessary, since it'd be really nice to have on a long trip. That's particularly true in the case of a nonturbo car, in order to maintain freeway speeds more easily.

Cruise control is a weak point with these cars. The culprit is the amplifier, a silver metal box inside the dash just ahead of the driver's left knee. (Replacements cost $200-300 but are plug-and- play.)

Geoff

I would want to hang around for a day or so checking the car out before you take it on the road. Any problems would surface pretty quickly and you can still get them taken care of locally instead of on the road. I would load up on extra oil, fuel filters, coolant , misc. small tolls duct tape, wire and then hit the road. Happy traveling

I can't offer any specific advice not being familair with that specific car but in general you're on the right track. The more time and money you spend while it's there the nicer trip you'll have driving it back.

I bought my 300SD in Atlants about 8 years ago. I had a guy who was familiar with those cars inspect it - he said "tie rods, cam chain, calve adjustment, alignment and all fluids and filters" so I had hat done and the seller damn near didn't want to give me the car back (jokingly said). I had a great trip home and still drive it daily.

Pussy :-)

The cruise control is the last thing I'd be worried about. Hard suspension parts, hoses, belts, fluids, brakes, that's what I'd be more concerned about. Inspect and replace as required.

The CC amp, when it fails, is 99% of the time a broken solder joint and the usual repair is pull the unit, resolder EVERYTHING then stuff it back in. That usually fixes it.

I've never bothered to fix mine. I like cramped foot syndrome :-)

[cruise control]

Feh. :-)

Absolutely. But the guy said he was going to have the car looked at before hitting the road, so I took it as a given that those items would be attended to first and foremost.

I find it's nice to be able to move around a bit, maybe lift one asscheek and then the other, in order to facilitate circulation. Not having to keep my foot on the accelerator makes taht easier.

Geoff

This 1980 has an automatic climate control system that's very complicated. So when you're told the A/C "doesn't work" be sure it's only the cooling that "doesn't work" not the whole system. Horror would be learning that someone had tried to "fix" this system (not just the cooling) and so messed it up that restoration is nearly impossible.

Know that there's a OEM "servo" which controls the coolant flow to the heater, the vacuum to the ducts and the blower speeds. These servos can only be had rebuilt - about $500. Then there's the "amplifier" a circuit board located behind the glove box. The board's solder lines crack and the climate control acts crazy - like sudden full heat. But worse, the servo has a plastic base that can break allowing the coolant to run out and frying the engine. So when you drive keep an eye on the temperature gauge - diesels are quite consistent 80 degree C. runners, only rising on longer hills.

There's a digital retrofit climate control available that replaces all the OEM junk. I installed one in my '80 model and it works well. Made by

and sold by - something to consider when you come to dealing with the car's climate control.

"Only through suffering can we achieve perfection" - Checkov :-)

Thanks for all the great advice EVERYONE. Its going to make owning one of these cars that much more satisfying knowing there is such a passionate and knowledgeable owners group out there.

I think I'm leaning somewhere in the middle as far as pre-road trip maintenance. I can deal without air conditioner cruise control etc, I'm hard like that :) Not that I wouldn't like to have it. But I'd rather Have the time to work it out myself, or have my mechanic here work on it after I know a little more, at Midwest labor prices as opposed to California ones ( Big difference) I'm a bit leery of just handing my car over to a mechanic I don't know in a strange town and just have him fix everything that could possibly be wrong. I'm more worried about the Major break me down in the middle of nowhere stuff.. Belts, Hoses, fluids.....AAA?

I'm thinking I'll have the fluids changed, compression test done, valve adjustment, hoses belts replaced as needed and hope for the best. Any advice on an honest mechanic in the Sacramento area???

Thanks again everyone.

I would take to MB dealer in the area...saying that you plan to purchase the car and want it inspected. Make appointment before you go... or see if they can squeeze you in.

Change oil would be the first thing to do... top off all the other fluids... you can top the fluids yourself or let a lube shop do it for you...

Inspect the hoses for any soft spots... if yes, buy the hose at local autozone or something.

Check the belt see if they are worn... like belt is below the rim of the pulley... or ripped or cracked badly... if not, I think you will be fine, pick up spares at autozone too.

You definitely need AAA Deluxe.

Bring some motor oil, some anitifreeze, water, and spare tool kit... buy locally at autozone...

Other than that, I wouldn't worry unless the dealer tell you so....

No need for compression test done at Sacramento.

AC... you can try to charge it up yourself with a kit if you want to...

Thanks Tiger..

What do you think is the best model specific manual I can bring on the trip..Any specific advice on tools to bring?

MB service manual ia the best... but in short time, maybe your local library has Haynes manual for you to borrow... W123 manual.

Basic tools... socket set, screwdriver, pliers, etc. Paper towels, hand cleaner, glove...

Tiger recommends:

A dealership? Bend over and grab your ankles. The M-B dealership in San Jose, Smythe European, charges a preposterous $165 an hour for labor, versus the painful but not extortionate $95 an hour the two independent shops I've used charge. I doubt things are much dif- ferent out Sacto way.

Geoff

I've used Haynes manuals for years, for several different cars. They're my favorite among those from the common publishers (Chilton, Clymer, etc.).

Maynes manuals are sold in the parts department of my local M-B dealership. Don't know whether that's usually the case or not. If not, the nearest Borders & Noble ought to have a decent sel- ection of them.

I have the manual for the W123 diesels, which I no longer own one of. Sadly, there doesn't seem to have been a Haynes manual written for the *W124* diesels. Sigh.)

Geoff

165.00 an hour! I've never even heard of such a thing, The independants out there charge more than the dealers here....I'm starting to re-think this , again. If I have to have any real work done to it there, it will totally kill any cost savings I would have driving it back. Now granted its not totally about the money, I was kind of looking forward to a little road trip, Get a feel for the car...But I really can't spend more than 5 days doing it, figure I can do it in 3 10 hour days, but that doesn't leave much room for sightseeing, much less potential breakdowns.

I think I may be wussing out a little...

hmmm..

My w124 manual has diesels in it. The 200, 250 (2.5 l) and 300 (3.0 l).

I think it's based on models that were sold in Britain. (It's talking about C to K registrations, nothing bigger that a 320, though)

Ximinez