Python rebuilt fuel distributors?

Has anybody had any experience with fuel distributors rebuilt by Python? I may be buying one for my 380SE. Thanks, Richard

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I have no personal personal experience with rebuilt Python fuel system parts. However, the salesperson at the wholesale parts house I buy all my Mercedes parts has had MANY returns of Python remanufactured parts. My advice is to avoid all remanufactured Python parts.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I got a spare used fuel distributor for our car.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
By the way, why do you need to replace your fuel distributor?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The car shakes at idle, when the exhaust condenses you can see it comes out in puffs, not smoothly, and the oil smells like a gas station after 3000 miles. I took it to the mechanic and he said I need a fuel distributor. Since it seems you check the newsgroup more than your hotmail, how much do you want for it, what year 380 is it for (mine is one of the last, and it seems that there are two different part numbers depending on when the car was produced), and are you sure it works fine? Also, do you think this is a repair I could do? It seems like it, until I saw in the service manual there are all sorts of adjustments and checks that need to be made after installing the new one. Are these really necessary or just redundencies? Thanks, Richard

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I am on newsgroup maybe 3 times at the most a day... sometime less.
I am not so sure your mechanic is right... I have been battling with rough idle when I bought the car... but fuel distributor did not help at all with rough idling.
I believe my problem has always been the valve compensator... siezed in certain position... or sticking... that lately, the synthetic oil has done a pretty good job loosening it. Engine runs smoother now too.
I had oil problem that smells like crazy out of the exhaust too even after changing the valve seals... until I switched to synthetic... then no more oil smell.
Mine is 1984. I am currently using one that came off a 1983.
Changing the fuel distributor is not too hard... however, you have to be very careful with the fuel line... and have aviation form a gasket ready when one of your fuel line won't stop leaking... also with any fuel distributor, you have to adjust the mixture again... it is not redundancy... your car sometime won't even start after swapping with another one.
Marlin, I want you to try something before you buy any fuel distributor... First, engine mounts... when is the last time you changed them?
Secondly, are you using synthetic motor oil now? Try it if not... 7 quarts of Mobil 1 10W30 or 0W40 and one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. That's what I put in my car to solve a bad hesitation problem.
Thirdly, with another quart of Marvel Mystery Oil... pour like 1/4 of it into your full tank of gas... follow the label on this matter... what this would do is lubricate your fuel pump... and fuel distributor... and lastly, it would help burn clean your valves.
The first thing you might notice is no bad oil smell coming out of the exhaust. Then the car start running better.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

My gas doesn't smell like oil. My oil smells like gas!

redundancy...
I guess I would have the mechanic do it for $200 then...if I have it done at all.

Not sure, I know they were changed at least once, but I don't know when. Either way I asked the mechanic to check the engine and tranny mounts and he said they are perfectly fine (I tend to believe him because most of what he's done for me is free. Even the ball joint which he says need replacing, he said don't bother now, but in about 5000 miles have a look at it)

I
I am not, but both synthetic and synthetic blend spilled all over my driveway from the leaking rear main seal (and I was going through about a quart every 800 miles). Now I use castrol gtx high mileage and I lose almost nothing...of course some of that could be gas.

lastly,
I've tried BG 44k and Techron (thats what the mechanic said to try last time I took the car to him for the same problem). This time, he did a more thorough check (last time I waited on it, so he was kinda quick about things), and he says none of that stuff will help it. Apparently the fuel distributor is putting too much gas out in some cylinders and not enough in others).
Thanks, Richard
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ahh... okay I see the problem now... forget about the synthetic oil thing... Next time you need to add oil, put in Marvel instead... still I would try a bit of Marvel in the fuel to lubricate the fuel distributor internals...
I developed a extremely bad hesitation after I used a fuel injection cleaner... and apparently too concentrated or incompatible something... It really screwed up my engine performance... I then used some Marvel in the gas tank and also synthetic oil change with Marvel, and then same day... actually 15 minutes later... hesitation went away.
Now I am baffled... my fuel mileage increased to 24 MPG from 18... maybe something is wrong with my speedometer... This is however 3 months later still using synthetic... but have not added Marvel since the first application. Only 1 tank of gas with some Marvel in it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.