R12 --> R134 Conversion (92 300E)

A/C has a slow leak -- down to ~1lb after 12 months. I'd be happy to just recharge the system every 12 months, rather than do a complete rebuild. But, R12 is such a hassle to deal with.
I've seen some very inexpensive R12 --> R134 conversion kits (less than $50) in local stores -- gauges, oil and R134. Do these kits work? Or, can they cause problems?
Are there other options, and how much do they cost?
What is a reasonable price for a rebuild?
Thanks in advance..... --matt
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: A/C has a slow leak -- down to ~1lb after 12 months. I'd be happy to : just recharge the system every 12 months, rather than do a complete : rebuild. But, R12 is such a hassle to deal with. : : I've seen some very inexpensive R12 --> R134 conversion kits (less than : $50) in local stores -- gauges, oil and R134. Do these kits work? Or, : can they cause problems? : : Are there other options, and how much do they cost? : : What is a reasonable price for a rebuild? : : Thanks in advance.....
I haven't converted my 380SL but I did convert my old Dodge Diplomat a couple of years ago. The R-134 kit came with a can of "sealer" which stopped the slow leak in that car, at least for a year (I don't drive it that often and last month cranked it up and found that the a/c was blowing hot air once again). And although it's a lot cheaper than R-12, I'd be hesitant to change over a Mercedes unless you plan on keeping it for a long, long time.
/ramalane
-- +++alt.2600/#hack FAQ (by The Voyager)+++ http://www.hackfaq.org
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Stay w/12... Way better thermal property specs than 134a.
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$4 to the R12 manufacturer and $296 to Greenpeace. I think R12 is running about $75/lb in US now.
Howard
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The thing with R12 in your case is you only need a topping off , as you do not have a large leak.. S o, that usually requires less than a lb. Some will tell you that it has to be evacuated and recharged , but in cases where the level never get low enough for the low side to pull a vacuum, there is no fear of air having entered the system.. A proper 134a repalcemnt/conversion requires not only oil, fitting, and 134a, but new expansion valve , high side switches, O rings , and flush...not cheap, and after all that, you still wind up with a system that can not handle the high thermal loads of R12.. Abd to be more specific, the system in your model was never a strong unit to begin with...so , with marginal performance of 134a ., well you see where I am going...
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Stay with the R-12. You won't be sorry. Converting to 134 is a quick fix that won't hold up and then you'll be looking at serious money to make things right again. Fix your leak and recharge with R-12. The price of R-12 is coming down as all the newer cars are being built with 134 and demand on R-12 lessens.
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R-134 does not require a new expansion valve.

not
cases
there
134a,
cheap,
to
I am

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No it does not.. But R12 EV will decrease the thermal efficency of the evaporator by 20 %.. Not neccessary, but highly recommended ....
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Don't change to 134A! Freeze 12 is an exact replacement for R12 and gets ice cold faster than 134A.This new refrigerant is safe and approved by the EPA. www.freeze-12.com P.

do
unit
where
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The only problem with the cheap do it yourself charge kits is no problem at all if you have 134a and a slow leak. The only way to know exactly what is leaking is to have an a/c service tech inject fluorescein dye into your system The leak will show like a beacon under ir light. P.

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