Don't use a ratchet for very tight nuts, you may damage the mechanism.
Better to use a breaker bar.
I'm not sure on the size, but it'll be a standard metric socket, probably a
Maybe the shop you went to last overtightened them. This is very common,
especially where air powered impact guns are used.
Use of lubricants should be avoided if possible due to the danger of
contaminating the brake surfaces. If you do decide to lubricate the threads
when replacing them, remember that the torque specification given for the
wheel bolts/nuts will be for dry threads, so you must reduce the applied
You will need a torque wrench to tighten the nuts correctly. I have found
that the extra length of a torque wrench is sufficient to remove the nuts if
used in reverse. I think you would seriously affect the safety of the
vehicle if you used any lubricant on these threads.
I have always lubricated the lug nuts of every car I and my
wife have ever owned over 40 plus years. I have never had a
lug nut come loose, never over-torqued a lug nut nor
stretched a stud, and never contaminated a brake rotor and
BTW, I always use a torque wrench, it's the only way to go.
Likewise, I too lubricate the threads, and have never had a problem. However
the warnings are justified. Simply spraying an aerosol lube spray all over
the back hub and rotor has the potential to cause all kinds of problems.
Use a torque wrench for doing up the nuts. But you would be better off using
a substantial breaker bar (in this case) to free the nuts, simply because
you have no idea how much torque is going to be needed to free them. A
breaker bar will not break under the strain, a cheap torque wrench might.
thanks for the replies folks - I went to the store today and spent $14 on a
breaker bar (18" long...1/2" thick), 17mm socket, and a can of Liquid Wrench.
tried the breaker bar alone, no budgey!
squirted the liquid wrench in each of the 20 lug holes (just a little burst)
and by the time I got back around the car to the 1st lug nut, I was able to get
it free...albeit with some heaving and grunting - but this time the heaving and
grunting bore fruit!!
I understand the dangers of over-lubrication of these parts in such close
proximity to other important parts, but if I can't change my own tire when I'm
driving out in Jerkwater, USA I've got a bigger problem than negligably
degraded braking due to overspray.
I'll take all the advice and meet you halfway - I'll use it VERY sparingly, and
only when I really NEED it (ie - when the lugs won't budge).
Thanks again for all the assistance.
alec email@example.com says...
It takes two men and several cans of beer :-)
Take a steel pipe, a 17 mm socket with a long handle and _really_ big
(sledge)hammer. While one applies force to the bolt the other whacks the
bolt head _really_ hard. Should help.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.