Repair for stripped oil pan drain plug (190e)

Hi Yall,
Just thought I would drop a note here to let you know that I finally got around to fixing my stripped oil pan drain plug in my 1986 190e.
I am pretty sure this is the reason the guy sold the car to me, as he
was very retentive about his oil...
Anyhow I discovered this product call "Timesert" which is a sleeve that fits into the whole the drain plug formerly occupied.
I bought a whole kit which included a drill. a reamer, a tap, 5 inserts and threading tool.
The whole process took me about 1 hour and this was my first time so I didn't rush. Works great! Very excited about not needing to replace the oil pan!
That is all. Marty
PS Car still running great. 140,000 miles
PPS Any other people in the Seattle area that need a stripped oil pan plug repaired, I have 4 left over inserts ;~)
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What keeps the metal shavings from getting in the oil? Is there a good method to get them out?
Bill
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I used heavy grease on the drill and then I poured a quart of disposable oil through when I was done (to flush any bits out). The shavings from the tapping are pretty tiny, and they are aluminum. Hopefully the filter does it's job if any get to the pickup.
So far so good... Marty
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back in the 1970's I ran a W115 220D/8 and my friend ran a W123 240D. Both always dripped tiny quantities of oil from the sump nuts. I think this is due to the fact that metric thread is relatively coarse, and the frequent removal of the nut brought about by regular oil changes introduces wear or play. We used to change the oil at 3000 miles for long life - it worked. If ever we had the engine out, for example for a clutch change, we would close up the original sump nut with weld, and install a UNC or UNF fine-thread nut. That always cured the drip problem, and I have done it since on many cars. The 'odd' nut in the sump doesn't matter because it is not likely to get mixed up with fasteners from anywhere else.
John
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