Should be easy if you have done disc brakes before. There are wear sensors
that simply clip into the pads which you may have to replace if they have
worn against rotor.
Find wear sensor and unplug wire at connector. Note the position of the 2
pad reatining pins and the anti rattle clip visible in the large hole on top
of the caliper. With a small diameter punch or other tool, tap out the 2 pad
retaining pins from the outside. Remove the anti rattle clip. Separate pads
and remove. Remove the two caliper bolts (on the inside of the caliper) and
hang the caliper out of the way. (You may have to turn the steering wheel to
get at bolts). An allen screw holds the rotor on.
I always turn rotors to prevent pulsing later on. I've been using Raybestos
(or Carquest) ceramic pads on my cars lately and like them a lot - good feel
without the nasty black dust.
Caliper bolt torque for the E class: front ft-lbs rear7 ft-lbs (w/o
MB recommends using new caliper mounting bolts. ( and maybe anti rattle
clips, and guide pins).
For the 260E (I also have an 89 260E) the procedure is different if you have
the Girling 2-bolt calipers that flip up to expose the pads. The process is
a lot easier:
Remove brake fluid reservoir cap, stuff a rag at in the top.
Remove lower caliper bolt, loosen the top bolt.
Flip up the caliper, remove the used pads, insert the new pads.
Push back the piston within the caliper (use a large C-Clamp or similar)
Flip the caliper back down, replace the lower bolt, tighten the top bolt
Replace the brake fluid reservoir cap, pump brake pedal until firm.
That's it. Takes all of 10 minutes per wheel.
Unless you want to replace the rotors like he said, in which case you have
to remove the calipers completely from their mounting points (both top and
bottom) to get the rotor off. Still, the job is much easier than the same
on a GM disk brake, and MUCH easier than drum brakes (I HATE DRUM BRAKES!).
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