Replacing Tie Rods & Drag Link On A 107

Many people use a pickle fork and a big hammer to git dem loose, but I like a screw-press tool like this one (It doesn't destroy the rubber boot)

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but don't spend a hundred bucks for it. I have one from another mfg but can't remember where I got it from (about $30)

Reply to
Save Da World
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My 380sl just failed inspection because a couple of the tie rod ends and drag link had an excessive amount of play. So i was thinking about replacing both tie rods, rather than just the ends, and the drag link.

The job doesn't look too hard, relative to many of the things i've already done on the car myself (e.g. valve stem seals, chain, chain guides, tensioner, fuel pump, accumulator. AC servo, starter). But I was just wondering if i was going to need any special tools, like a tie rod puller, and if there was anything else i should know about the job before i tackle it.

Thanks very much in advance.

Reply to
Todd Burns

If you are going to do this job,. you might as well do the entire steering like you said... the drag and two complete tie rods. You just have to measure the distance between the two tie rod ends so you can set your new one close enough so that you can run to alignment shop afterward.

Nothing special... just don't forget the steering shock absorber.

Reply to
Tiger

Thanks. But if i'm replacing the drag link, do i still need this?

Reply to
Todd Burns

Your car has no drag link. A drag link converts rotary motion to linear. Your car has a pitman arm, center link, and idler arm. Plus the tie rods. If you're changing out a tie rod (end), you can use a pickle fork, rentable from Auto Zone, since the damage to the boot is of no matter. If you wish to save the tie being removed, either a press as mentioned or a strong swat with a stout hammer on the side of the knuckle will get it apart.

Reply to
Chas Hurst

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