Top gasket - tighten

Hi, I'm new here - just had a little around. Nice reading. Well, here is my story.
I purchased a very nice 190 D 2.5 with aut. It runs very good and has been
maintained so perfectly and almost looks like it came from the factory. It has 450.000 kilometers on it.
First things I did when I got it:
1. changed oil 10w40 2. changed oilfilter 3. changed diesel filter
I read in this NG about oil in coolant. It leaks a little oil into the coolant - just a tiny bit.
And around the front gasket to the left just above the water pump it leak from the head gasket just a little. I could run about 5000 kilometers without loosing more than 0.25 liters oil.
Here is my Q:
Would it be usefull/helpfull to take of the valve top and tighten the gasket bolts with an 12 star 10mm Umbraco to the side where it leaks or would this make the head gasket uneven unless I make sure to tighten all around evenly which I would try to do?
Would I be able to tighten the head gasket enough to stop the leak?
I know the alternative is to take the whole lot apart and enter a new gasket.
A new gasket in a repairshop here in Denmark is aprox. 1200 USD. Nice work if you can get it.
Thanks you for your time and ideas.
Regards Niels
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rather than replace the gasket, you want to crack the head?
Sounds like a not so good idea.

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I guess you are right. I'll get a top gasket before I start and then do the thing from scratch.
Thanks.

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I don't know about the oil ratings where you are, but in the U.S. most 10-40 oil lost it's diesel rating about five years ago, they are only rated to be in gas engines. The only 10-40 rated for diesel is usually full synthetic. You may want to check.
Bernard
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Hi, My manual (Haynes) says 10w40. And my MB manual that came with the car has many oils to use like 15/40 5/40 etc. depending on coldness/climate.
What is a good summeroil?
Regards Niels

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on each quart of oil, it will have a rating like "sj/cf" the "s" rating is for a Spark engine, the "c" rating is for a compression engine, and lots of oils that used to have both, dropped the compression rating about five years ago. SO, your Haynes, and manual may be out of date, as far as the weight they recommend, I use chevron delo 15/40, shell rotella is also fine, ask at your well informed auto parts store, to be sure that you use the correct oil.
Bernard
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In Europe I believe Oils are up to standard meaning they are both for petrol and diesel.
We have a shop shat sells parts etc. called www.biltema.dk and many others like it.
Under oil they mention that the oil shown is for both petrol and diesel. "Bil = Car"
http://www.biltema.dk/products/productlist.asp?iSecIdd8
The oils are all up to standard or over regarding the car-manifacturer standards.
Any oil would do I guess as long as viscosity is ok in the cold/warm weather.

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an engine in good condition during the summer. I just got concerned when you said 10-40 since we no longer have that option, except in full synthetic.
Bernard
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An engine that's done 450K Km (280K miles) will have a few complaints; I would suggest you live with these minor items and leave it alone. Opening any engine should be done only for good reason, IMHO.
Suppose you open it and try to re-torque the head - a futile exercise after the gasket's first month or two - and you break off one of the head bolts. Then you have no choice but to remove the cylinder head. Since the head is off then you may as well rebuild the engine. All this for a bit of oil? The risk is greater than the potential reward, IMHO.
Suggest you use heavier oil next time, 20-50 or 30, not 10-40.
Good luck with your "new" car.
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HEavier oil is a good idea - I shall try that.

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better, but for "leaking" oil it makes no real difference. In my experience.
Bernard
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